At 08:58 AM 3/6/98 +0000, "Pete Freeland" <pete@fltdyn.com> wrote:
>I am in the process of cleaning up and doing routine maintenance on
>my white '75 (VIN 2790) and the driver's side door lock solenoid
>isn't working. I have a couple of questions:
>
>1. Is it possible to repair this or is there some maintenance that
>should be done on these to help preserve them?
I would try squarting some WD-40 around the plunger and the door latch
mechanism and then try working it by hand. To see if it is really the
plunger and not the latch, disconnect the plunger from the rod that goes
to the latch mech. Now try the door open switch. If the plunger moves,
the problem is probably that the mech. is gummed up. Clean it down
with WD-40. Lubing it with either WD-40 or silicon spray show help.
If that doesn't work, then you probably need a new solenoid. But before
jumping at that, I'd try to see if the solenoid is good. You will need
a multimeter. Disconnect the battery before making this measurement. Set
it to the 1x Ohms setting. Take one lead and touch the terminal that the
wiring attaches to, touch the other lead to the case. If the wire inside
the solenoid is good the meter should deflect to almost 0 ohms.
Make sure the contact is clean and shiny and that the section of the case
that you are touching the lead to is also clean and shiny. If the meter
deflects, then the solenoid is probably good; and the problem is most
likey a bad ground. Make sure that the tab and the area on the door frame
is clean and shiny. To clean the tab, connector and door frame use some
sandpaper. The grit is not important, anything will do, preferably about
100 grit.
Reinstall the solenoid, reconnect the battery and try the door opening
switch again. Does it work now? If not, remove the solenoid and get
a couple of aligator clips (available at Radio Shack for about $5 a
package - Note you want the larger ones).
WARNING - WARNING - WARNING - WARNING -
1. This can be dangerious to you electrical system!!!! If you
don't know much about electricity DON'T attempt this. Find
someone to help you!!!!
2. DO NOT set the solenoid on the car. Consider all metal on the car
as a ground. (See electrical primer article on Web page.)
3. Be very careful with the lead that is connected to the Positive
side of the battery. DO NOT let it touch ANY metal part of the
car including the body! It will cause a short circuit and could
damage you electrical system or your paint job.
Go to another car that has a battery that is accessable. Connect one
aligator clip to the electrical contact on the solenoid and the other
end of the clip to the positive side of the battery. Connect a 2nd
aligator clip to the negative side of the battery and bursh the free
end of this clip against the side of the solenoid. If the solenoid
fires, the solenoid is good and you have too much resistance in one of
the connections in the wiring or a bad switch.
>
>2. If the unit can't be fixed, is there an immediate cross-reference
>for this part? I would be surprised if this is a unique
>Bricklin-only part.
According to Terry Tanner, this part is nolonger available. He has
developed an air driven solenoid that works off of the air supply for
the air doors. There is an advantage to this in that these new solenoids
can pull a lot harder than the older electrical ones. Consiquently, you
can adjust the doors for a better/tighter fit and the solenoid can still
pull the latch open. The down side is the are expensive, about $100
each I think.
However, the electric solenoids are basically the solenoids used on
electric door locks. So you can try almost any door lock solenoid from
numerious cars, like a Lincoln or even a 79 Plymouth Mini Van. Also
J.C. Whitney has some electic door solenoids. The only problem might
be making a mounting bracked to adapt a "non stock" solenoid.
John
John T. Blair WA4OHZ email: jblair@exis.net
Va. Beach, Va Phone: (757) 495-8229
48 TR1800 65 Morgan 4/4 Series V
71 Saab Sonett III 75 Bricklin SV1 77 Spitfire
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