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Re: Door Lock Solenoids

To: Pete Freeland <pete@fltdyn.com>, bricklin@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Door Lock Solenoids
From: "S.G.Schiro" <gschiro@qsky.com>
Date: Fri, 06 Mar 1998 12:58:29 -0600
Whoops!  I meant "pull" not "pill"


S.G.Schiro wrote:
> 
> I got mine working by removing the end plate of the casing and cleaning
> the piston inside the solenoid which had becone corroded from moisture.
> Because removing the end plate makes the metal tabs holding it less able
> to grip the plate, I added some expoy to ensure the plate stayed in
> place.  This seems to have worked OK.  If an automotive replacement
> cannot be found for an unrepairable solenoid, it would be an easy matter
> to buy a new 12v solenoid of similar "pill" from an electronics supply
> house.  Probably a lot cheaper than the $100 or so mentioned for a
> pneumatic system.
> 
> PS  For those who don't especially like vacuum operated headlights, a
> simple and inexpensive 12v gear motor can easily be adapted to actuate
> the mechanism.  This avoids an area of potential vacuum leaks and will
> work just as well.
> 
> George Schiro
> 
> Pete Freeland wrote:
> >
> > I am in the process of cleaning up and doing routine maintenance on
> > my white '75 (VIN 2790) and the driver's side door lock solenoid
> > isn't working.  I have a couple of questions:
> >
> > 1.  Is it possible to repair this or is there some maintenance that
> > should be done on these to help preserve them?
> >
> > 2.  If the unit can't be fixed, is there an immediate cross-reference
> > for this part?  I would be surprised if this is a unique
> > Bricklin-only part.
> >
> > I have confirmed that I have good voltage to the unit.   It simply
> > isn't moving the push rod that is attached to the door latch.  I
> > believe it failed as a result of the latch needing lubrication.
> >
> > As a general note, I had a problem with my door staying locked and
> > being stuck in the car.  I found that several of the screws that
> > attach the latch mechanism to the door structure had become loose and
> > allowed the door latch to shift.  More important, the door latch
> > needed internal lubrication.  After spraying WD-40 into the mechanism
> > inside the door and working it for a few minutes I was able to
> > restore the normal function.  I am planning to do the same to my
> > passenger door this weekend to help prevent what happened to me on
> > the driver side door.
> >
> > Thanks for your help.
> >
> > Pete Freeland
> > Portland, Oregon


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