Gary,
Another possibility is that your door cylinder is sticking. If you hear the
solenoid fully disengage the locking mechanism, but the door doesn't move
this may be the case. This happened to me; I was always having to manually
help the door to start its upward travel. Once I broke the resistance, it
would rise normally.
The solution (provided to me by John Martin) was to remove the cylinder and
fill it with ATF, leave it over night, then drain. This relubricated
everything and the door worked perfectly from then on. Of course, if this
is the problem you should also check your lubricator, as it's not doing its
job.
Rod
#0445
----- Original Message -----
> Has anyone had to deal with a delayed door opening? My driver side works
> fine. I have to hold the button for 15 seconds to open my passenger door.
>
> There is a significant drop in voltage across the switch, getting to the
> selenoid. My driver side has 11-12 volts, the passenger side only has 7
> volts.
>
> The door opens fine if I put 12 volts to the selenoid.
>
> Any ideas?
>
> Gary
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