Thanks for the advice chaps; it's much appreciated.
I'm using a cheap gasless MIG welder made by SIP; The problem I have with
this machine is that it has no separate current & feed rate contols; just a
high and low switch. It's also only been possible for me to obtain .9mm wire
on an economic basis. It's really only possible to obtain decent
penetration with the welder at it's high setting; which I feel is rather too
high for the job in hand .With a fairly thick wire, fast feed and high
current this results in a heavy weld bead, which whilst strong and complete
is very unattractive. I do also seem to have a problem on internal corners
where the only way I can be absolutely certain (in my own mind) of
penetrating both plates is to 'weave' down; which in turn tends to leave
quite a heavy build-up ..which is also more often than not amost impossible
to access with the grinder
There is also some tendancy to blow through, which of course requires
remedial treatment. With this being a gasless mig I wouldn't feel happy
about simply returning to the scene of the crime and closing the hole while
hot without first attacking the area with the wire brush and possibly the
grinder; I'd be concerned about leaving flux deposits in the weld. Of course
this means the hole cools, and you're setting up another bead which adds to
the general ugliness of it all
Having ground some welds flat, and had the chance to inspect some of the
welds from the inside I'm satisfied that it is 'all there'
......Some years ago I has a conventional MIG and managed just fine with it.
In fact I did a short recreational welding course at a local college some
years ago; I've also built various other things (camera jibs, lighting rigs
etc) of welded construction ..so I've some vague notion of what I should be
doing.
I regret chosing the SIP machine, but I'm stuck with it!
The MOT station is actually right next door in the next unit! Trouble is I
can't seem to get the guy to look at it when I'm there! Two minutes to take
a quick glance is all I ask at him but each time I do ask I get a long tale
about how busy he is which takes longer to tell than it would take him to
look at the piggin thing! ..C'est la vie!
I'm almost tempted to dress the welds down; They're such that for the most
part it would be quite possible to get them near enough flat and invisible.
What's the best way to do this though; Grind them completely flush
eliminating the bead (would I run the risk here of being accused of somehow
not welding the patches in?)
.....As for having to removing the welding I'm afraid that's not possible
since I've cut out the rusty metal and the new plates ARE the chassis now
I've been recording the re-build and it should be possible to get some
pictures of the work I've done so far posted to a page on my website; I'll
try and get this done by the weekend.
_______________________________________________
Matt Rathney-Quinn
Please reply to: matt@tfgtv.co.uk
TFG Arts and Media
Professional Corporate Video for SMALL Business!
www.tfgtv.co.uk
______________________________________________
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Tinker" <david.tinker@virgin.net>
To: "Matt Rathney-Quinn" <tfg.tv2@virgin.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 30, 2000 8:06 PM
Subject: Re: UK MOT test; Welding Standards
> You do not say what you are using to weld with, MIG, ARC or Gas. The
> important point is to make sure the first run of weld has good
penetration,
> ie has penetrated through the plate and should be visible from the back.
It
> is not necessary to put layers and layers on weld beads down.
> In short it is the first run which is important and if that is ok then
> further runs should not normally be necessary on thin plate. What I would
> advise is that you should practice first and then when you are proficient
do
> the chassis, otherwise you may have to remove the welding and do it all
> again.
>
> Good Luck
>
> David Tinker
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Matt Rathney-Quinn <tfg.tv2@virgin.net>
> To: <british-cars@autox.team.net>; <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, August 28, 2000 10:58 AM
> Subject: UK MOT test; Welding Standards
>
>
> > I'm repairing (as opposed to restoring) my 1966 Triumph Herald;
> >
> > The chassis is receiving extensive welding; much cutting out of rust and
> > replacement with good metal.
> >
> > The problem is my welding AIN't pretty. Don't get me wrong, it's strong
> > enough; I've ground back many welds to prove that to myself; it just
ain't
> > pretty and the chassis is going to wind up looking like a badly stitched
> > patchwork quilt. Not that I mind that; the idea is to get a good tidy
> > everyday driver out of this car; I've no intention to show it, this
isn't
> a
> > restoration job it's an extensive repair job and to an extent I really
> don't
> > care what the underneath looks like, so long as it's strong, safe, and
> gets
> > through the annual test.
> >
> > The question is; how will this affect the (UK) MOT test An MOT tester
has
> > already told me that there is no problem with the actual amount of
> welding;
> > and he seems to be suggesting that the fact it is continuous is enough.
As
> > yet though I haven't got the guy to actually look at the car and give me
a
> > ye or ney ....I'm told that other mechanics have looked at the car in
> my
> > absence and pronounced the welding 'OK' if a little heavy handed; but I
> > really feel I need further advice and comments.... And none of these
> > mechanics have said it's ok to ME directly....
> >
> > Should I grind\dress the welding back? TO be honest I'd rather just
leave
> > the excess metal there; but it is heavy, particularly in corners where
> I've
> > built up layers of weld to convince myself that the new metal is
actually
> > attached to the old.
> >
> > ..and what about painting the chassis? Obvoiusly this needs to be done
> > before re-assembly; but this MOT tester I spoke to reckons he would
rather
> > see it unpainted; impossible I say; I don't propose great gobs of
bitumen
> > based underseal; I plan to hammerite the chassis......
> >
> > HELP! I'm having a crisis of confidence here; Is ther an online guide to
> > what's actually expected in the MOT? I did spend a few hours searching
> but
> > came up with nowt.
> >
> > As always, any thoughts, advice and experiences would be very welcome
> >
> > Matt.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Matt Rathney-Quinn
> >
> > Please reply to: matt@tfgtv.co.uk
> >
> > TFG Arts and Media
> > Professional Corporate Video for SMALL Business!
> >
> > www.tfgtv.co.uk
> >
> > ______________________________________________
> >
> >
> >
>
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