I have the dual master but not aftermarket calipers. I'm not sure why
they alone would fix the problem unless the originals were losing fluid
which they dont seem to be doing. any ideas as to why they helped?
Bill Babcock wrote:
>
> I had the same basic problem. I checked the runout on my disks a dozen
> times, hot and cold, because I thought it had to be wobble. Finally I
> replaced the calipers with Tiltons and the problem mostly disappeared
> (Tilton has a bolt-on replacement for Girling calipers). Then I replaced
> the master cylinder with a dual tilton unit with a balance bar, and
> never looked back. Much better.
>
> Kind of an inelegant solution I admit, but it's a lot better than trying
> to fix parts that come pre-broken from the manufacturer..
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Jack W Drews [SMTP:vinttr4@forbin.com]
> > Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 1997 1:31 PM
> > To: friends of Triumph
> > Subject: Brake pedal height
> >
> > It is with great fear and trepidation that I interrupt the hilarity of
> > the Season's messages to ask a genuine technical question, but I have
> > been forced to do so by public humiliation and derision on the Team
> > Thicko page, so here goes:
> >
> > My TR4 suffers from unpredictable brake pedal height. Sometimes the
> > pedal is high, sometimes low, on the same lap. We are forced to
> > compensate for this by tapping the brake once before we reach a
> > corner,
> > much to the consternation, I'm sure of our fellow competitors, when
> > they
> > see the brake ligt flash at a point prior to the corner.
> >
> > I think it is caused by front pad push-back. Front bearings are tight.
> > Happens with new pads or old ones. We are running the TR6 master
> > cylinder for its dual circuit, and we do not have the eaarly TR line
> > pressure valve in the plumbing.
> >
> > What can we do to cure this?
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