Ooooh. I forgot to tell you that in addition to the dual Tiltons, I have
changed the entire front suspension & brake system to GT6 bits. That means
bigger calipers, bigger stub axles, bigger rotors (and bigger lug studs
:-}). Not horribly expensive either. I think I paid less than $325 for
everything, Tiltons, front susp from a GT, two rebuilt calipers for a MK
III GT6 ($38 + $10 core each at Auto Palace!) And that included a whole
'nuther GT6! (less engine & trans...a FP project for SomeDay...)
Bob
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From: Jack W Drews[SMTP:vinttr4@forbin.com]
Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 1997 7:57 PM
To: friends of Triumph
Subject: Brake pedal height
Thanks to all who responded to my recent question regarding possible
cures for varying pedal height. You may remember that the problem I
tried to describe was not one of fade, but rather that the pedal would
vary in height from one braking situation to another.
I received responses from 14 people regarding experience with 16 cars. I
tried to tabulate those and here is the best summary I can come up with:
6 cars with dual Tilton M/C's have no problem
1 with dual Tiltons still had the problem
1 with TR6 & booster had no problem
1 with TR6 & booster still has the problem
1 helped problem with new, thicker front disc
1 solved the problem with new, thicker front disc
4 say stiffen the front stub axle some way
1 stiffened front stub axled by sleeving
4 say the residual pressure valve is a "must"
The dual Tilton setup certainly carries the day, but I hesitate to spend
the $$$ along with the other things I'm doing this winter. What I would
really like to do is make up a pair of heavy duty stub axles and try
them, but I'm not sure I can accomplish that. I am certainly going to
replace rotors since they are thin anyway, and install the residual
pressure valve because it just takes time and not a lot of $$$.
Thanks again to all who responded!
--
uncle jack in frigid iowa
TR4 Rallye Replica vintage racer
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