> The way I set the ignition timing on my TR-4 is whilst driving to the race
> and
> cruising at say 4000 rpms, I press down on the accelerator and if the engine
> pings, I stop and retard the spark. If it doesn't ping I advance it until it
> does then back off again until it doesn't do it any more. After buying race
> gas at the track, I do it all over again during practice and then I go on to
> worry about something else because this seems to always work.
<HP>This may work for street use, and is the way I used to time my street
TR3,
but for a race motor the advance curve may exceed normal combustion at any
point
in the RPM range; and at high track speed you might not be able to hear
abnormal combustion until it is too late.
>>BTW: bronze valve guides should be honed, not reamed (trackside emergencies
excepted)
Road Atlanta knows this!
>
> It also appears that the engine will run a little hotter if the spark is
> retarded. This seems counter-intuitive, doesn't it?
<HP> Retarded ignition sends the heat of combustion into the cooling system,
not out
via the flywheel.
>
> So the question is, how do you real guys set your spark par excel lance? And
> how do you check it for each cylinder?
<HP> 1 and 4 are easy, but make certain that your timing light will work at
high
RPM (many do not work well there)
You have, I hope, verified the motor timing marks???
On the Dyno, under Load, is the only safe way I know to do this............
Just mark the crank pulley for BDC & BDC max advance when you degree the cam,
and you have 2 & 3
<HP>
>
> Richard Taylor
>
> TR-4
>
> Atlanta
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