What Richard Good just described for the TR-6 applies to the TR-4 as well.
Tony
Richard's message if you missed it:
"Reversing the upper fulcrum from factory orientation pulls the
control arms in 1/4" and adds about 1.3 degrees negative camber if I
remember my calculations correctly. You can do it without removing
the control arms from the fulcrum. Just remove the four bolts
holding the fulcrum to the tower and the two bolts through the ball
joint and remove the whole assembly. Then hold the fulcrum and spin
the control arms 180 degrees then bolt the whole assembly on the
other side of the car. This keeps the front control arm in the front
but reverses the fulcrum.
Preferred camber will depend on the tires. The Hoosier A6's that I
run for autocross and hillclimb want 3 degrees. They are 225/45-15
on 7" rims. To get that much camber and to keep the tires clear of
my unmodified fenders I reversed the fulcrums and then slotted the
bolt holes to slide them in even further. I just took the worn out
tires off and the fronts wore fairly even. The rears were also set
at 3 degrees but wore more on the inside from squatting under
power. I backed it off to 2 degrees to see how that works out. Also
changed to a slightly stiffer spring."
At 11:22 PM 3/8/2013, Jon Gannaway wrote:
>I am preparing a 1964 tr4 to vintage race in California. I am looking for
>simple and easy ways to get negative camber in the car. Any suggestions
>would be helpful.
>
>Jon Gannaway
>831-402-4080
>
>
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