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Hi,
I have a bum c/r tranny, so I figured I'd swap in a stock box just to run while
I figure out the problem with the c/r box. Due to the differences with the
input shaft, I had to switch to from the 21 spline clutch disk to the stock 10
spline disk. I have done this a couple of times in the past due to "pesky
layshaft thrust washers" Both clutch disks measure to within .010 thickness. I
bolt everything up and verify via the clutch cross shaft approx. 1/2 inch of
travel, which is normal. In neutral, the output flange spins freely. If I try
to put the tranny in any gear and push the clutch pedal to the floor and try to
spin the output flange by hand, it's locked. The clutch is not releasing.
I've measured everything a few times looking for anything that looks amiss and
so for, nothing seems to be an indication of why the clutch won't release.
Just to be sure that things are free in the bellhousing, I used a pipe on the
cross shaft arm and slowly applied pressure and the clutch DOES release so the
indication is that I either have mechanical sloppyness or insufficient
hydraulic linear motion. I verified that the pivots have no slop and none of
the pivot holes are egged out. I did find the pin to the pivot arm was slightly
worn, so I threw in a 5/16 bolt to take up slack there, but that was to no
avail.
In the process, I have tried switching in two different transmissions and
several combinations of clutch disks and pressure plates and to this point the
clutch will not release when using the clutch pedal but will release as
described above when using a pipe on the pivot arm.
I plan to re-install the original gear box (and the proper clutch disk) at some
point just to see if the problem is resolved but I have no idea if that will
work or not. I guess I just have to try and see. But to be honest, doing around
8 transmission swaps in 12 hours is fairly physical not to mention the
challenge due to the roll cage. But that's just me being a wimp. ;-) I mean, I
could have used that time to actually FIX the C/R transmission - right?
All this is more or less a long way of asking - are there any documented
measurements for things like the "finger height of the pressure plate measured
to the clutch disk" or the height measure from the rear engine plate interface
to the clutch fork pin? I bolted several PP's to a spare flywheel and came up
with "around 1 inch" when the PP is bolted down, but that doesn't tell me
anything like how far the fingers have to depress to open the clutch up. As I
mentioned earlier, 1/2" of lever motion usually is adequate, so think that part
of the system is correct.
In any case, I'm confused and puzzled by this case not to mention slightly
bummed because I had to miss some lapping at Lime Rock because the car isn't in
a running state right now. I thought about pinging "Click and Clack" and posing
this as a "puzzlah", but decided not to. I also know that the solution should
be obvious, but to this point is alluding me. So I need a kick in the right
direction.
TIA,Bob Lang339-927-4489
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<html><head></head><body><div class=3D"yahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"font-fami=
ly:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px;"><div>Hi,</=
div><div><br></div><div>I have a bum c/r tranny, so I figured I'd swap in a=
stock box just to run while I figure out the problem with the c/r box. Due=
to the differences with the input shaft, I had to switch to from the 21 sp=
line clutch disk to the stock 10 spline disk. I have done this a couple of =
times in the past due to "pesky layshaft thrust washers" Both clutch disks =
measure to within .010 thickness. I bolt everything up and verify via the c=
lutch cross shaft approx. 1/2 inch of travel, which is normal. In neutral, =
the output flange spins freely. If I try to put the tranny in any gear and =
push the clutch pedal to the floor and try to spin the output flange by han=
d, it's locked. The clutch is not releasing.</div><div><br></div><div>I've =
measured everything a few times looking for anything that looks amiss and s=
o for, nothing seems to be an indication of why the clutch won't release. <=
br></div><div><br></div><div>Just to be sure that things are free in the be=
llhousing, I used a pipe on the cross shaft arm and slowly applied pressure=
and the clutch DOES release so the indication is that I either have mechan=
ical sloppyness or insufficient hydraulic linear motion. I verified that th=
e pivots have no slop and none of the pivot holes are egged out. I did find=
the pin to the pivot arm was slightly worn, so I threw in a 5/16 bolt to t=
ake up slack there, but that was to no avail.</div><div><br></div><div>In t=
he process, I have tried switching in two different transmissions and sever=
al combinations of clutch disks and pressure plates and to this point the c=
lutch will not release when using the clutch pedal but will release as desc=
ribed above when using a pipe on the pivot arm.</div><div><br></div><div>I =
plan to re-install the original gear box (and the proper clutch disk) at so=
me point just to see if the problem is resolved but I have no idea if that =
will work or not. I guess I just have to try and see. But to be honest, doi=
ng around 8 transmission swaps in 12 hours is fairly physical not to mentio=
n the challenge due to the roll cage. But that's just me being a wimp. ;-) =
I mean, I could have used that time to actually FIX the C/R transmission - =
right?<br></div><div><br></div><div>All this is more or less a long way of =
asking - are there any documented measurements for things like the "finger =
height of the pressure plate measured to the clutch disk" or the height mea=
sure from the rear engine plate interface to the clutch fork pin? I bolted =
several PP's to a spare flywheel and came up with "around 1 inch" when the =
PP is bolted down, but that doesn't tell me anything like how far the finge=
rs have to depress to open the clutch up. As I mentioned earlier, 1/2" of l=
ever motion usually is adequate, so think that part of the system is correc=
t.</div><div><br></div><div>In any case, I'm confused and puzzled by this c=
ase not to mention slightly bummed because I had to miss some lapping at Li=
me Rock because the car isn't in a running state right now. I thought about=
pinging "Click and Clack" and posing this as a "puzzlah", but decided not =
to. I also know that the solution should be obvious, but to this point is a=
lluding me. So I need a kick in the right direction.</div><div><br></div><d=
iv>TIA,</div><div>Bob Lang</div><div>339-927-4489<br></div></div></body></h=
tml>
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_______________________________________________
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http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
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