> First Question: Is there any way to get the bearing to sit more
snugly in the
> hub? Would firmly tightening up the screws holding the axle be the
solution?
> Is there a seating agent I can add that will 'lock' the bearing in
place? Or
> is the hub just worn and needs to be replaced (read that as I'm screwed).
Replacing the hub would be best. Tightening screws won't help. I have
had very good luck with Loctite bearing retainer compound #680 on a
motorcycle main bearing.
http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/loctite_us/index.cfm?&pageid=114&layout=3
> Second question: Can I clean up the brake shoes and re-use them?
I have successfully cleaned oily brake shoes & drums with regular brake
cleaner. Scrub them off the best that you can with the cleaner. Put the
shoes in the oven at 250 degrees for a couple of hours. This will drive
out any remaining oil. Clean & rebake a couple of times if necessary. I
tried this because it took several tries to get things to seal & didn't
want to soak two sets of shoes. It worked well enough that I'm still
using the cleaned shoes.
If the ring spacer holds the axle flange out much more than the
thickness of the paper flange gasket, things will never seal. If the
flange bottoms before the ring is securely clamped, the bearing will
spin in the hub. This is usually caused by not getting the bearing fully
seated in the hub. Or mis matched parts. The book says that the ring
should protrude .001" to .004" beyond the flange with gasket in place.
This isn't much but it is very critical, so measure carefully. The The
only thing that holds the flange tightly is the lug nuts. The small
cross head screws don't do much except keep the drum from accidentally
coming off during disassembly. Use new self locking lug nuts & if in any
doubt, use some green Loctite "wicking grade" on them. Use "Hylomar" on
the flange gaskets. I use 45 ft/lbs on the nuts.
Good luck,
Dave Russell
BN2
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