Earl,
I plan on using both the lock washer and loctite red to ensure that it
doesn't go anywhere. I will try your trick as well. I am currently
waiting on a 1/4-28 helicoil repair kit to fix the lower timing cover
bolt. I did get the pulley off by disconnecting everything that would
interfere with the engine going up which is about what you would do if
you actually pulled it. I did remove the tunnel cover over the
transmission because it allowed me to see if I was hitting anything and
how much clearance was available.
Thanks,
Don
57 BN4
-----Original Message-----
From: Earl Kagna [mailto:kags@shaw.ca]
Sent: Monday, July 26, 2004 11:18 AM
To: Don@anglesey.us; Healey List
Subject: Fw: Starting nut removal
Don:
Further to this - should have mentioned this in my first reply:
The locktab is an iffy thing in that it is all too easy to break off the
little tooth that locates into the groove in the crankshaft that keeps
the
tab itself from turning. The iffy thing about this is it can break on
installation and you're not going to know it - it's hidden behind the
nut.
This is the reason that a lot of Healey engine builders will omit the
locktab and use locktite (or sometimes use both).
A trick I was taught years ago by an old, very good British car
mechanic:
Grease the back side of the 'starter dog nut' lightly to reduce the
friction
against the locktab when you are tightening it, and don't use an imact
wrench to tighten the nut. Works for me.
Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BT7 tri-carb
BJ8
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