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Trouble with Clutch..Help

To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Trouble with Clutch..Help
From: jhomonek@mindspring.com
Date: Thu, 7 Apr 2005 14:12:01 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
Hi Everone,

I am at wits end. This is on a 1959 3000 BN7 going through a full restoration.  
The list has been helpful in the past and I hope we can sort this out as well.  
Engine and side-shift trans/OD were rebuilt and recently installed.  We fired 
the engine up last weekend for initial break in / seat the rings.  The 
transmission is an earlier one: BN4...as the original 3000 transmission was 
abused terribly and I located a local one (already rebuilt) from a club member. 
 Here lies the problem...the trans will not go into gear with the engine 
running otherwise grinding occurs.  Going through problem determination, it 
appears that the slave pushrod does travel far enough to disengage the clutch 
assembly.  The new push rod from M*** is about 1/2" shorter than the one that 
came on the car.  I have the longer one in now.  If you start the car with the 
clutch pushed in, it starts and wants to move slightly..telling me that it is 
not stuck but is partially disengaged...and not totally releasing  If I let the 
clutch out, it really grabs like it should and moves the car forward.  While 
the clutch is pushed in while running, you can hear slipping and making a 
whishing sound.

Here is the scenario of all components used (there may be incompatibilities)
Using silicone brake fluid.
New hydraulic line
New Clutch Master Cylinder
New Slave Cylinder
New Slave Cylinder Hose
3000 Flywheel (early, Dec, 1959)
10" 3000 Pressure Plate and Clutch Disk
100/6 Throwout Bearing (I was told the 100/6 and 3000 throwouts were identical)
BN4 Transmission/OD

Questions: 
Are there any obvious incompatibilites in this setup? If so, what needs to be 
changed?
Do I just have a clearance problem? If so, how to correct?
Is there an adjustment there on the slave cylinder or push rod to allow for a 
longer "throw" or travel?  (A previous suggestion was to extend the slave 
pushrod).
What is the normal amount of travel for the Slave Cylinder Push Rod?
Should I rebleed the lines?  (It doesn't feel mushy now)
Should I remove the shims from the Master Cylinder to allow that pushrod more 
travel and maybe create more pressure to the slave cylinder and slave pushrod?
Is Throwout installed incorrectly?  I believe it is in correctly...is there a 
way to check?
Any other ideas?

Thanks in advance for your help and advice.  Soon to be another Healey on the 
Highways again after a long rest.  She's going to the body shop in two weeks!!  
:)

John Homonek
1959 BN7 (Driving me nuts right now)
1974 Jensen Healey




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