Hi Alan,
I agree with Jim on the benefits. You are correct, the starter is not
polarity sensitive. No parts swapping is required.
Most of the GR starters come with multiple sets of nose mounting holes
so that the starter body can be rotated to a position where all parts
clear.
The starter can be wired with an external jumper from it's main terminal
to it's solenoid operating terminal. It will come with two separate
terminals. With this configuration, you still use the original solenoid
& wiring. When the original solenoid energizes, the new solenoid & the
starter both energize at the same time. The current is going through two
sets of solenoid contacts.
The second wiring configuration would be to connect both main wires on
the original solenoid to one of it's terminals to bypass the solenoid, &
extend the original solenoid operating wire to energize the new
solenoid. The second method is likely more reliable since it removes the
original solenoid from the circuit.
Dave Russell
BN2
Alan F Cross wrote:
> In message <008e01c5982a$1b718500$1f9bfea9@dell>, Bluechipracing
> <bluechipracing@snet.net> writes
>
>> Alan: I generally support originality, but I would push you toward
>> the gear reduction starter. I have installed gear-reduction starters
>> on two of my Healeys, and several of my friends have also. No
>> regrets, never a problem....More torque, turns faster, less current,
>> less weight. And its one upgrade-to-modern where you can easily go
>> back to original if so inclined.
>>
>> Jim
>> BN1, BN2, BN6, BN7
>>
>
>
> Hi Jim, and Listers,
>
> OK, I'm getting 50:50 'refurb' and 'upgrade' advice! A question, though
> - are the modern replacements polarity sensitive? Does it matter whether
> I'm positive earth or negative earth? I don't think it should matter, as
> both the field windings and armature windings will be reversed together,
> so it should still go round the right way.
>
> Also, I understand that the new motors have solenoids built in, and that
> there are two ways these things may be supplied - one with separate
> motor and solenoid connections, and the other where these are wired
> together internally (and you drive them both from the original
> solenoid). In the first case you lose dependence on the old solenoid,
> but have more wiring changes. In the second case you leave all the
> wiring intact, but of course are totally dependent on a (now largely
> redundant) old solenoid.
>
> Have I got this all about right?
>
> A rider to all this: in Listers' experiences, do these all come ready to
> bolt on, no drilling/tapping, no switching over of the pinion gear from
> the old motor?
>
> Thanks for all the advice on the List, as always much appreciated.
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