Alan,
Two points.
1. Most scuttle shake is usually a result of front suspension components.
Therefore, the best single thing you can do is have your wheels and tires
dynamically balanced "on the car". This not only balances your wheels and
tires, but also your front brake drums too. Of course you have to mark the
wheels if you take them off so you get them back on in the exact same
relationship with respect to the hub. I have Erika's front tires/wheels
balanced on the car by my wire wheel expert and at 70 MPH I have less
steering wheel vibration in my 50 year old Healey than I do in my five year
old Lexus. Really.
2. Out of balance drive shaft or bad universal joints can also produce
scuttle shake.
Vrooom vrooom,
John
----- Original Message -----
From: "Allen C Miller, Jr." <acmiller@mhcable.com>
To: <healeys@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 02, 2006 2:33 PM
Subject: scuttle 'shake, rattle and roll'
> Thanks much to all who replied on the thread.
>
> It seems your near-unanimous concensus that, after truing drums, wheels
> and
> tires via Hendrix, checking the shock mounts, and verifying all body
> panels
> are properly sealed, that I should end up with little or no annoying
> scuttle
> shake, and that doing the full scuttle reinforcement is not all that
> likely to
> fix the problem.
>
> I am interested by the fact that the condition had a rapid onset, which
> makes
> it seem like tires and wheels. I cant' belief it would be the drums in
> just
> 2500 miles, but it won't hurt to check.
>
> I ruled out universal as I bought a brand-new DW unit with the balance
> weights
> welded on. Shocks were newly rebuilt from Moss, and I've heard some say
> they
> can fail rapidly, so I will check these when I pull the front shocks to
> check
> the mounts for cracks.
>
> As for the cowl sealers, I will be sure to get a product that is pliable
> and
> reversible.
>
> The one puzzler that I would love to confirm is whether anyone else had
> round
> pertrified rubber firewall grommets used by the factory as shims to buffer
> between the cowl and the frame between the dash and the firewall
> bulkhead.
> There is no question that is what fell out -- you know, the one that comes
> from Moss without the hole precut so you can work in the capillary tube
> for
> the water temp gauge.
>
> Allen Miller
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