Kees
>Hard to tell, should be mentioned in a WSM or handbook for most classic
>cars, but use your grease gun regularly, say every 6 months as the
>grease may harden (suspension parts, drive shaft universal joints and
>sliding yoke, water pump, shifting gear). Put a drop of thin oil on the
>pivots of the distributor and on the felt pad under the rotor
>regularly, lubricate the dynamo and sometimes starter motor regularly
>with thin oil. Put some oil on the moving parts of the carbs,
Just one comment. Do not lubricate the bell crank pivot on the 100. The
pivot pin is directly screwed into the exhaust manifold and gets very
hot. If oiled this will turn into a deposit and gum up the movement. The
throttle may then not close when it should. You might just yet a high
'tick over' but worse you might not be able to stop the car as quickly
as you would like. This pivot should be left dry. It has as special
liner in the bell crank that runs on the stainless steel pivot.
Regards
>do not forget the cables for choke, speedo, tacho and the drives. Apply
>some oil to all hinges. Use graphite or molibdeensulfide powder in the
>lockbarrels and lockmechanisms etc. Undoubtetly there are many more
>items. All that moves needs lubrication.
>The given intervals in a manualare rather meaningless. Check and
>rectify when neccesary.
>Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
>
>R Phillips schreef:
>> Following the thread on oil changes, I wondered if anyone has published (or
>> can tell me) what an annual lubrication, oil, grease, etc schedule should
>> include. I just had my generator rebuilt and only then found the oil hole.
>> Any advice would be appreciated.
>>
>> Ric
>> '65 BJ8
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