A temperature-dependent air leak on the intake side of the engine
would be my first guess, too, followed by a possible problem in the
high voltage circuitry from coil to plugs. It is simple to swap out a
known good coil to make sure it isn't a bad new coil. A temperature
dependent loose connection in the wiring would be a real possibility
given that everything is new and hence probably untested.
If a loose connection doesn't seem to be the problem, you want to have
spares, right? So buy a full set of everything from the dizzy cap to
spark plugs, not forgetting the condenser and rotor, and try the new,
new set. ( Keep all the good spares for later.) If you want to be
methodical you can swap out the pieces one at a time so you'll know
when/if you replace something that is failing, or have tightened a
loose connection.
You should be able to check for vapor lock by shutting down the engine
quickly while it is acting up, and checking the float chambers for
fuel level.
It might not be temperature related at all, just a flow blockage
somewhere between the tank and the carbs, with debris that accumulates
over some minutes of operation and then falls apart when you stop.
Fuel tank pickups have been known to do this, also rubber fuel lines.
-Roland
On Sun, 20 Nov 2011 08:55:16 -0800, Rick wrote:
::That, or an air leak in the manifold.
::
::Carbs not tied together? one will open, the other will stay closed. (I
don't
::know the 100's well--I have Sixes--they are linked together by the throttle
::shafts)
::
::Wilko
::
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