healeys
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Re: [Healeys] Tuning

To: "Michael Salter" <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tuning
From: "Earl Kagna" <kags@shaw.ca>
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2014 12:17:11 -0700
Cc: healeys <healeys@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <CAPAC+V7ZqhaDotTCR54bGj=CYbDPs5q9ZTHF_CetzfqYyfqb9Q@mail.gmail.com><B031B6257B3445CB85D80587CAA34BD2@KagsLaptop> <CAB3i7LJyxT4fGogRUxqXCLUEwz6Usxa5T3typyWTqmDEw7xFAw@mail.gmail.com>
Michael / Price / Fred:

I was thinking that the car may be running on 1 carb b dropped needle, or
(in the case of HS carbs) a blocked, or even partially blocked jet feed pipe
from the float bowl.  Ibve had this happen to me more than once!  Both easy
enough to fix before the ignition gets torn apart.

An easy way to check this is: With the car idling in the garage, pull each
spring lever - in turn b towards you this is the lever that the throttle
return spring is hooked into.  This will allow the carb to open as far as the
pin in the linkage fork will allow it.  If one carb is very slow to pick up
rpms compared to the other, (or even wonbt pick up rpms at all) then the
problem is with that carb, and you can begin to check further.

Ibve done this many times to quickly check the both (or all three) carbs are
picking up revbs approximately equally.

I canbt account for the apparent misbehavior of the overdrive, but lets try
and get the engine happy first.

Earl Kagna
Victoria, B.C.
BJ8, BT7 tri-carb

From: Michael Salter
Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2014 11:37 AM
To: Earl Kagna
Cc: Fred Wescoe ; healeys
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Tuning

Yes Fred,

I believe Earl is on the right track. The symptoms you describe fit fuel
starvation perfectly.
If you drive the car as fast as it will go before the engine starts missing
for a few seconds, then shut the engine off (and with it the fuel pump) and
coast to a stop there are 2 things to check.
First remove  a plug and check its colour. It will probably be very white not
brown or black.
Then take off the float chamber caps and check the fuel level in the float
chambers. The floats of one or perhaps both carbs will most likely not even be
floating i.e. you will not be able to push them down into the fuel.

These are both good checks for fuel delivery.

Once you have confirmed the cause of the problem  you can start looking for
the fault that is causing it.


Michael S

BN1 #174




On Sat, Jun 28, 2014 at 2:20 PM, Earl Kagna <kags@shaw.ca> wrote:

  Fred:

  What carbs - HS6's?.  How did you check the fuel flow?  I assume
disconnecting the fuel pipe at the front carb and running the fuel pump
momentarily with the disconnected hose emptying into a suitable container.

  Let me know and I might have some suggestions for you.

  Earl Kagna
  Victoria, B.C.
  BJ8, BT7 tri-carb

  -----Original Message----- From: Fred Wescoe
  Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2014 10:44 AM
  To: healeys
  Subject: [Healeys] Tuning


  I have driven my BJ7 several times this week.  Each time I drove the car,
  there was a noticeable lack of power.

  The car slows down when climbing long hills and will not accelerate at all
  up them.  On flat sections, I could not get the car to accelerate at
  anything more than a modest amount in fourth gear.  It was somewhat better
  in second and third.  If I engage overdrive, the car will cruise OK on the
  flats but drop out of overdrive instantly when climbing a hill or pressing
  the accelerator.

  I have checked everything (I think).  New plugs, cap, rotor and wires are
  OK.  Valves are set properly, timing is right on and advances when the
  engine RPM goes up, no wobble in the shaft.  I have a Pertronics replacing
  the points and have had it installed for years with no problems.  Carbs
  seem to be adjusted properly with an air flow meter.  Chokes are not stuck
  open.  Fuel pump and fuel flow is great.  The battery is in good shape
  fully charged and the alternator is charging just fine.

  I am using the highest octane ethanol pump gas (93) and I know that has
  some impact on drive-ability.

  I have looked on line and am considering an emissions tester.  Moss sells
  an O2 sensor called the Exhaust Gas Analyzer but it measures only O2.  Moss
  also sells  a Wide Band O2 Sensor Controller (I am not quite sure of the
  differences) that requires an oxygen sensor to be installed.  Is one better
  than the other?

  For those who have used one of these devices, or something similar, what do
  they really do and can I get the car set up properly with either of them?
  Is there an alternative that I should consider before considering either of
  these options?  Will these types of devices allow the proper air/fuel
  mixture to be accurately set.

  Any information and guidance in this arena would be greatly appreciated.

  Thanks in advance,

  Fred
  63BJ7




  LC-1 Wide Band O2 Sensor, Controller & Gauge by Innovate Motorsports

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