There are only two situations where the coolant temperature in the
engine is lower than the opening temperature of the thermostat:
1- during warming up of the engine
2- when there is a heater core that has so much capacity that it is
sufficient to overcool the engine when the heater is at full blast on a
really cold day.
The proper places, in my view, to measure the coolant temp is in the top
hose/thermostat housing above the thermostat/top of radiator or just
below the thermostat, where it will also measure the coolant temperature
during warming up within the engine.
When measured on the head or in the engine block one may expect
deviations from the real maximum coolant temp.
To keep the coolant level to the top of the filler neck, use a properly
installed expansion vessel, this will eventually expel all air/vapour
from the radiator.
Kees Oudesluijs
Alan Seigrist schreef op 15-10-2014 11:11:
> Actually, I've found some advantages to the 100 sensor location - it'll
> generally tell you if your thermostat is working (you can see the temp jump
> all of a sudden when the thermostat opens) and also I've found when it's
> seems to be running too cool, it usually means I need to add a bit of
> coolant because the bulb is sensing the air temp, not water temp.
>
> On Wed, Oct 15, 2014 at 5:02 PM, Alan Seigrist <healey.nut@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Folks -
>>
>> All of you have lost your collective marbles noodles knowledge (said with
>> respect).
>>
>> The 100 has its temp sensor mounted on the tank of the radiator, not on
>> the engine block. This means if the thermostat is shut, then the temp in
>> the top of the radiator will go down as you are driving because the wind is
>> cooling a closed system in the radiator.
>>
>> This is why on the 3000 they moved the temp bulb to under the thermostat,
>> so it tells you better what engine / head temps are regardless to whether
>> the thermostat is opened or closed.
>>
>> Cheers!
>>
>> Alan
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 15, 2014 at 4:21 PM, Derek Job <derek.c.job@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I'm surprised at some of the large variations in temp that people are
>>> reporting. My car gets up to temperature and stays there. It might rise
>>> slightly when stuck in traffic for a prolonged period. It doesn't drop
>>> 20-30 degrees during normal driving. That doesn't sound right to me.
>>>
>>> Derek
>>>
>>>
>>>> On Tue, Oct 14, 2014 at 11:03 PM, Steven Kingsbury <
>>>> airtightproductions@icloud.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On Wednesday, October 1st I installed an all aluminum radiator in my
>>>> BN1
>>>>> 100.
>>>>> On
>>>>> Saturday, October 4th I went on a 200 mile plus journey from the valley
>>>>> floor
>>>>> in
>>>>> northern California up to 8500 feet elevation at the summit of Mount
>>>>> Lassen and then back into the valley. The temperature in the valley
>>>>> was about 95 degrees F and going up in to the mountains, I got stuck
>>>>> behind a motor home and on a very twisty, steep, hot and slow road,
>>>>> that's where I got my hottest, a little under 200 degrees! The rest of
>>>>> the trip I ranged from 150 degrees to 190! I'm not even going to count
>>>>> the 120 I got coming down out of the mountains!
>>>>> All in all, it's the best thing I've ever done for my car. The
>>>>> radiator was made by Wizardo;? out of New York, I got it off of eBay
>>>> and
>>>>> other
>>>>> than
>>>>> them sending me the wrong radiator to begin with, (which they did
>>>>> straighten out), I would highly recommend their work and product. NFI,
>>>>> just happy with what it's done to my car. Didn't have to change a
>>>>> thing in the car and it bolted right in! Sweet!
>>>>> Steven Kingsbury
>>>>> BN1 #598
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