--===============0144063581073156875==
--089e011777af93bed70517b18e6c
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Kees--
No doubt you are right.
Now if I can just figure out a way to shut down the ignition systems of the
other cars with which I am racing I will be a consistent winner!
Best--Michael Oritt
On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 9:50 AM, Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl> wrote:
> I would not be surprised at all if ECU's from nearby modern cars can be
> affected.
> Kees Oudesluijs
>
>
> Michael Oritt schreef op 4-6-2015 om 15:37:
>
> What Michael says is true.
>
> Here's another one that happened with my Elva Courier race car: Once
> while getting ready for a race weekend I switched distributor caps from o=
ne
> that had suppression leads to another that solid core wires. As soon as=
I
> started the engine the electro-magnetic field managed to turn my video ca=
m,
> which was hard-wired into the car's 12VDC, off and on randomly.
>
> As an experiment I powered the cam from a separate battery and even
> though it was about 10 feet from the car with no wires whatsoever
> connecting it to the car the electromagnetic field created by the ignitio=
n
> system still took control of the cam.
>
> As soon as I switched back to suppression leads the issue went away.
>
> Best--Michael Oritt
>
> On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 8:18 AM, Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Although I use them myself I do have one caution regarding the use of
>> solid core ignition wires.
>> As Michael Oritt discovered in Targa Newfoundland they can play havoc
>> with electronics. We encountered problems with our "wired" intercom and
>> Terratrip rally meter which immediately vanished when we reverted to
>> suppressor leads.
>> I have also found that my cell phone will not receive messages or even
>> do GPS navigation while the engine is running in #174 which has complete=
ly
>> original 62 year old Lucas ignition components.
>> Michael S
>>
>> On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 7:20 AM, Simon Lachlan <
>> simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk> wrote:
>>
>>> Not 100% sure what you mean by =E2=80=9Cthe advance curves are retaine=
d=E2=80=9D. In
>>> the 123 you can choose your advance curve.
>>>
>>> And I=E2=80=99m sure one of the built in choice approximates to the ori=
ginal.
>>>
>>> And yes(!), I too have a complete Lucas dizzie in my boot. The correct
>>> rotor arm, decent old Champion plug caps, bumble bee copper wire. Fitte=
d
>>> with a Pertronix. Points also carried on longer expeditions. Belt and
>>> braces!!
>>>
>>> Simon
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* Alan Seigrist [mailto:healey.nut@gmail.com]
>>> *Sent:* 04 June 2015 07:33
>>> *To:* Simon Lachlan
>>> *Cc:* Bob Spidell; Healey list
>>>
>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Missing under Load
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> The advantage with Pertonix over 123 is the advance curves are retained
>>> and also if your pertronix does fry, keeping points in the boot is easy=
for
>>> a backup. I have a 123 in my A90 and I keep a full lucas dizzy with
>>> attached cam driveshaft in the boot, just in case. Call me strange.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 1:42 PM, Simon Lachlan <
>>> simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk> wrote:
>>>
>>> Or get a 123Ignition distributor.
>>>
>>> Simon
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> *From:* Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] *On Behalf Of *=
Bob
>>> Spidell
>>> *Sent:* 04 June 2015 06:09
>>> *To:* healeys@autox.team.net
>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] Missing under Load
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Agree across-the-board. Had same problem with suppressor wires;
>>> installed copper stranded wires and no problem in 60K miles or so.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> re: "Strongly suggested I install points instead of the Petronics."
>>> Why? Does he recommend blood-letting and trepanning for headaches? I =
know
>>> Jeff is an acknowledged expert, but disagree with the points
>>> recommendation. Name a modern manufacturer--they of the 100K mile
>>> tuneups--that recommends points? Have (probably) 80K miles on
>>> Pertronix--with OEM Lucas cap and stranded wires--with no ignition issu=
es
>>> (save the occasional well-known bad rotor). If you like changing point=
s
>>> every 5K miles, fine, but it's not the solution to every ignition probl=
em.
>>>
>>> You need: OEM Lucas distributor cap (if you can find one), stranded
>>> copper wire secondary wires, OEM Lucas suppressor plug caps, good plugs=
,
>>> and a quality rotor.
>>>
>>> Bob
>>>
>>> On 6/3/2015 6:33 PM, Alan Seigrist wrote:
>>>
>>> If you are running suppressed modern wires into your standard Lucas
>>> cap, you can have huge problems, as the graphite type materials they us=
e in
>>> these don't like connecting to the screw connector in the Lucas cap . =
You
>>> need to use metal core wires, such as bumble bee wire.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Also did you check distributor shaft wobble? If your dizzy bushes are
>>> worn, and you have excessive wobble, you could also be having similar
>>> problems.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Lastly, check internal wires/insulating washers in the dizzy make sure
>>> it is all kosher.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 9:24 AM, R. Price Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Took the BJ8 out today. Changed the plug wire to #6 (there was a
>>> visible spark last night). The car struggled big time Had to change
>>> rotors every 3 miles in order to get the car home. Driving along and a=
ll
>>> of a sudden backfire, black smoke, nothing. Changed the rotor (it was
>>> noticeably hot) and got another 2 or 3 miles out of it. Looked tonight=
in
>>> the dark and the visible spark from number 6 plug was not there. Talke=
d to
>>> Jeff with Advanced Distributors and he suggested it was plug wires.
>>> Strongly suggested I install points instead of the Petronics. At his
>>> suggestion, I checked the ohm reading on the plug wires and they checke=
d
>>> out OK. Still wondering if it could be bad gas, I did add a product ca=
lled
>>> =E2=80=9CHeat.=E2=80=9D Supposed to absorb any water that may be in th=
e gas tank. Not
>>> much help, so far.
>>>
>>> I=E2=80=99m waiting for the plug wires and distributor cap from Moss Mo=
tors to
>>> show up to install them. Hope that helps but not really convinced it=
=E2=80=99s the
>>> solution.
>>>
>>> Do you guys have any words of wisdom for me?
>>>
>>> Price Lindsay
>>> 67 BJ8
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>
>>
>> --
>> *If you can't fix it with a hammer, you've got an electrical problem.*
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________
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>
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--089e011777af93bed70517b18e6c
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Kees-=
-</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div =
class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">No doubt you are right.=C2=
=A0</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><di=
v class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff">Now if I can just figure =
out a way to shut down the ignition systems of the other cars with which I =
am racing I will be a consistent winner!</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" =
style=3D"color:#3333ff"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"col=
or:#3333ff">Best--Michael Oritt</div></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><=
div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 9:50 AM, Oudesluys <span d=
ir=3D"ltr"><<a href=3D"mailto:coudesluijs@chello.nl"; target=3D"_blank">c=
oudesluijs@chello.nl</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_qu=
ote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex=
">
=20
=20
=20
<div bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF" text=3D"#000000">
<div>I would not be surprised at all if
ECU's from nearby modern cars can be affected.<br>
Kees Oudesluijs<br>
<br>
<br>
Michael Oritt schreef op 4-6-2015 om 15:37:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite"><div><div class=3D"h5">
=20
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div class=3D"gmail_default">What Michael says is true.</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default"><br>
</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default">Here's another one that happened w=
ith
my Elva Courier race car: =C2=A0Once while getting ready for a ra=
ce
weekend I switched distributor caps from one that had
suppression leads to another that =C2=A0solid core wires.=C2=A0 A=
s soon
as I started the engine the electro-magnetic field managed to
turn my video cam, which was hard-wired into the car's 12VDC,
off and on randomly. =C2=A0</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default"><br>
</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default">As an experiment I powered the cam
from a separate battery and even though it was about 10 feet
from the car with no wires whatsoever connecting it to the car
the electromagnetic field created by the ignition system still
took control of the cam. =C2=A0</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default"><br>
</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default">As soon as I switched back to
suppression leads the issue went away.</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default"><br>
</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default">Best--Michael Oritt</div>
</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 8:18 AM, Michael
Salter <span dir=3D"ltr"><<a href=3D"mailto:michaelsalter@gmai=
l.com" target=3D"_blank">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>></span>
wrote:<br>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div class=3D"gmail_default">Although I use them myself I do
have one caution regarding the use of solid core
ignition wires.<br>
</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default">As Michael Oritt discovered in
Targa Newfoundland they can play havoc with electronics.
We encountered problems with our "wired" intercom=
and
Terratrip rally meter which immediately vanished when we
reverted to suppressor leads.<br>
</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default">I have also found that my cell
phone will not receive messages or even do GPS
navigation while the engine is running in #174 which has
completely original 62 year old Lucas ignition
components.<br>
</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_default">Michael S<br>
</div>
</div>
<div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote"><span>On Thu, Jun 4,
2015 at 7:20 AM, Simon Lachlan <span dir=3D"ltr"><<a h=
ref=3D"mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk"; target=3D"_blank">simon.lachlan=
@homecall.co.uk</a>></span>
wrote:<br>
</span>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote">
<div lang=3D"EN-GB">
<div><span>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Not 100% sure what
you mean by =E2=80=9Cthe advance curves are
retained=E2=80=9D. In the 123 you can choose yo=
ur
advance curve.</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span> And I=E2=80=99m sure =
one of
the built in choice approximates to the
original.</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>And yes(!), I too
have a complete Lucas dizzie in my boot. The
correct rotor arm, decent old Champion plug
caps, bumble bee copper wire. Fitted with a
Pertronix. Points also carried on longer
expeditions. Belt and braces!!</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Simon</span></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>=C2=A0</span></p>
</span>
<div><span>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b><span lang=3D"EN-US">Fr=
om:</span></b><span lang=3D"EN-US"> Alan Seigrist [mailto:<a href=3D"mailto=
:healey.nut@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank">healey.nut@gmail.com</a>]
<br>
<b>Sent:</b> 04 June 2015 07:33<br>
<b>To:</b> Simon Lachlan<br>
<b>Cc:</b> Bob Spidell; Healey list</span></p=
>
</span>
<div>
<div><br>
<div>
<div><b>Subject:</b> Re:
[Healeys] Missing under Load</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0</p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">The advantage with
Pertonix over 123 is the advance
curves are retained and also if your
pertronix does fry, keeping points in
the boot is easy for a backup.=C2=A0 I ha=
ve
a 123 in my A90 and I keep a full
lucas dizzy with attached cam
driveshaft in the boot, just in case.=C2=
=A0
Call me strange.</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0</p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">On Thu, Jun 4,
2015 at 1:42 PM, Simon Lachlan <<a h=
ref=3D"mailto:simon.lachlan@homecall.co.uk"; target=3D"_blank">simon.lachlan=
@homecall.co.uk</a>>
wrote:</p>
<div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Or get
a 123Ignition distributor.</span>=
</p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>Simon</s=
pan></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span>=C2=A0</=
span></p>
<div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b><span l=
ang=3D"EN-US">From:</span></b><span lang=3D"EN-US"> Healeys
[mailto:<a href=3D"mailto:hea=
leys-bounces@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">healeys-bounces@autox.team.n=
et</a>]
<b>On Behalf Of </b>Bob
Spidell<br>
<b>Sent:</b> 04 June 2015
06:09<br>
<b>To:</b> <a href=3D"mailto:=
healeys@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">healeys@autox.team.net</a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re:
[Healeys] Missing under
Load</span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0</p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Agree
across-the-board.=C2=A0=C2=A0 Had s=
ame
problem with suppressor wires;
installed copper stranded wires
and no problem in 60K miles or
so.</p>
<div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><br>
<br>
re: "Strongly suggested I
install points instead of
the Petronics."=C2=A0=C2=
=A0 Why?=C2=A0 Does
he recommend blood-letting
and trepanning for
headaches?=C2=A0 I know Jeff is
an acknowledged expert, but
disagree with the points
recommendation.=C2=A0 Name a
modern manufacturer--they of
the 100K mile tuneups--that
recommends points?=C2=A0 Have
(probably) 80K miles on
Pertronix--with OEM Lucas
cap and stranded wires--with
no ignition issues (save the
occasional well-known bad
rotor).=C2=A0 If you like
changing points every 5K
miles, fine, but it's not
the solution to every
ignition problem.<br>
<br>
You need: OEM Lucas
distributor cap (if you can
find one), stranded copper
wire secondary wires, OEM
Lucas suppressor plug caps,
good plugs, and a quality
rotor.<br>
<br>
Bob</p>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">On
6/3/2015 6:33 PM, Alan
Seigrist wrote:</p>
</div>
<blockquote>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">If
you are running
suppressed modern wires
into your standard Lucas
cap, you can have huge
problems, as the
graphite type materials
they use in these don't
like connecting to the
screw connector in the
Lucas cap .=C2=A0 You need =
to
use metal core wires,
such as bumble bee wire.
</p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=
=A0</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Also
did you check
distributor shaft
wobble?=C2=A0 If your diz=
zy
bushes are worn, and
you have excessive
wobble, you could also
be having similar
problems.</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=
=A0</p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Last=
ly,
check internal
wires/insulating
washers in the dizzy
make sure it is all
kosher.</p>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0=
</p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">On
Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at
9:24 AM, R. Price
Lindsay <<a href=3D"ma=
ilto:050.rpl@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank">050.rpl@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:</p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Took
the BJ8 out today.=C2=A0
Changed the plug wire
to #6 (there was a
visible spark last
night).=C2=A0 The car
struggled big time=C2=A0
Had to change rotors
every 3 miles in order
to get the car home.=C2=
=A0
Driving along and all
of a sudden backfire,
black smoke, nothing.=C2=
=A0
Changed the rotor (it
was noticeably hot)
and got another 2 or 3
miles out of it.=C2=A0
Looked tonight in the
dark and the visible
spark from number 6
plug was not there.=C2=A0
Talked to Jeff with
Advanced Distributors
and he suggested it
was plug wires.=C2=A0
Strongly suggested I
install points instead
of the Petronics.=C2=A0 A=
t
his suggestion, I
checked the ohm
reading on the plug
wires and they checked
out OK.=C2=A0 Still
wondering if it could
be bad gas, I did add
a product called
=E2=80=9CHeat.=E2=80=9D=
=C2=A0 Supposed to
absorb any water that
may be in the gas
tank.=C2=A0 Not much help=
,
so far.<br>
<br>
I=E2=80=99m waiting for t=
he
plug wires and
distributor cap from
Moss Motors to show up
to install them.=C2=A0 Ho=
pe
that helps but not
really convinced it=E2=80=
=99s
the solution.<br>
<br>
Do you guys have any
words of wisdom for
me?<br>
<br>
Price Lindsay<br>
67 BJ8</p>
</div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0=
</p>
</div>
</blockquote>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">=C2=A0</p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
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<span><br>
<br>
<br>
-- <br>
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div>
<div dir=3D"ltr"><i><span>If you can't fix it wit=
h a
hammer, you've got an electrical problem.</=
span></i><br>
<br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</span></div>
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