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Re: [Healeys] Keeping rear shock bolts tight

To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Keeping rear shock bolts tight
From: Oudesluys <coudesluijs@chello.nl>
Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2016 10:11:36 +0100
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <007101d14684$18ac2fa0$4a048ee0$@roadrunner.com> <CAB3i7LL0_bBb-q50C7ajMcwaktNmsBv0eq2rKfQLkBDtQ5HHdA@mail.gmail.com> <BLU436-SMTP82A7C817B768E5C1FC0B73A9F30@phx.gbl> <CAKkXjqM+_JgM+9ORpV+HBsCpsYeGEu5GZvuk90O0_=QCD-fV_w@mail.gmail.com> <568CBE92.1010600@cosmos.net.au> <CAFBXTkJ2U376ps7Ch2KDhrHPwHfpZkqiv7Am17atN3xCvjUJVA@mail.gmail.com>
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As Mike Salter mentions, it is not a question of nuts working loose, so 
tab washers and security wire won't help much. The material is deforming 
thus creating play, not because the nut/bolt is turning. When working 
with aluminium alloy it is always important to have the mating face of 
the body machined, a large hardened and machined washer is fitted and 
tight fitting grade 8 or higher bolt and nuts are used.
Kees Oudesluijs

Op 6-1-2016 om 9:00 schreef Alan Seigrist:
> Larry - wow, best solution I heard yet.  Especially if this plate rest 
> flush against the bottoms of side of the mount plate.  You could then 
> lock the bolts with a nut against the threaded plate after it is 
> tightened.  Elegant.
>
> I was half thinking to make a tab washer connected to both bolts, and 
> security wire  the bolts together, but I think your solution makes 
> much more sense.
>
> - Alan
>
> On Wed, Jan 6, 2016 at 3:13 PM, Larry Varley <varley@cosmos.net.au 
>
>     While my comment didn't mention Mike Salter's contribution to the
>     discussion, and have seen the quality of Mike's work over many
>     years, I have no doubts about his problem solving ability. Where
>     this situation gets worse, as has been mentioned, is when the
>     holes in the mount plate get worn oval. It occurred to me that
>     some enterprising person could devise a 3/8 thick plate with 2
>     tapped holes that would sit on the inside the the mounting plate
>     and replace the nuts. It could locate in its soundings and be an
>     easy retrofit to existing cars, without any welding involved, or
>     could be welded in during a restoration. Just a thought for what
>     it may or may not be worth.
>     Cheers
>     Larry Varley.
>
>
>
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>
> Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.
> Gecontroleerd door AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
> Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11332 - datum van uitgifte: 
> 01/05/16
>


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    <div class="moz-cite-prefix"><br>
      As Mike Salter mentions, it is not a question of nuts working
      loose, so tab washers and security wire won't help much. The
      material is deforming thus creating play, not because the nut/bolt
      is turning. When working with aluminium alloy it is always
      important to have the mating face of the body machined, a large
      hardened and machined washer is fitted and tight fitting grade 8
      or higher bolt and nuts are used. <br>
      Kees Oudesluijs<br>
      <br>
      Op 6-1-2016 om 9:00 schreef Alan Seigrist:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
cite="mid:CAFBXTkJ2U376ps7Ch2KDhrHPwHfpZkqiv7Am17atN3xCvjUJVA@mail.gmail.com"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <div dir="ltr">Larry - wow, best solution I heard yet.  Especially
        if this plate rest flush against the bottoms of side of the
        mount plate.  You could then lock the bolts with a nut against
        the threaded plate after it is tightened.  Elegant. <br>
        <br>
        I was half thinking to make a tab washer connected to both
        bolts, and security wire  the bolts together, but I think your
        solution makes much more sense.<br>
        <div><br>
        </div>
        <div>- Alan</div>
        <div class="gmail_extra"><br>
          <div class="gmail_quote">On Wed, Jan 6, 2016 at 3:13 PM, Larry
            Varley <span dir="ltr">&lt;<a moz-do-not-send="true"
                href="mailto:varley@cosmos.net.au"; 
target="_blank">varley@cosmos.net.au</a>&gt;</span>
            wrote:<br>
            <blockquote class="gmail_quote">While my comment didn't
              mention Mike Salter's contribution to the discussion, and
              have seen the quality of Mike's work over many years, I
              have no doubts about his problem solving ability. Where
              this situation gets worse, as has been mentioned, is when
              the holes in the mount plate get worn oval. It occurred to
              me that some enterprising person could devise a 3/8 thick
              plate with 2 tapped holes that would sit on the inside the
              the mounting plate and replace the nuts. It could locate
              in its soundings and be an easy retrofit to existing cars,
              without any welding involved, or could be welded in during
              a restoration. Just a thought for what it may or may not
              be worth.<br>
              Cheers<br>
              Larry Varley.<span class=""><br>
              </span></blockquote>
          </div>
        </div>
      </div>
      <br>
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      <br>
      <pre wrap="">_______________________________________________
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</pre>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <meta http-equiv="Context-Type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
      <p class="">Geen virus gevonden in dit bericht.<br>
        Gecontroleerd door AVG - <a moz-do-not-send="true"
          href="http://www.avg.com";>www.avg.com</a><br>
        Versie: 2016.0.7294 / Virusdatabase: 4489/11332 - datum van
        uitgifte: 01/05/16</p>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
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