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Re: [Healeys] Keeping rear shock bolts tight

To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Keeping rear shock bolts tight
From: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2016 20:55:51 -0800
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <007101d14684$18ac2fa0$4a048ee0$@roadrunner.com> <03B15EC2-1D8F-46F9-9D63-34172F1DD099@gmail.com>
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Just occurred to me the best solution would be to weld the nuts to the 
backside of the mount (and use threadlocker on the bolt).

Bob



On 1/4/2016 4:36 PM, Richard Ewald wrote:
> Under most conditions a properly torqued bolt won't come loose unless 
> exposed to extreme vibration. Books I have read on race car prep are 
> very down on split lock washers as the authors feel that the bolt has 
> too loosen before the lock washer digs in. They much prefer using 
> Loctite, new locking nuts or if that is not adequate drilled and 
> safety wired hardware.
> Personally I think if you are going to go with lock washers go full 
> Brit style. Bolt, lock washer, flat washer, bracket, shock, bracket, 
> flat washer, lock washer, nut.
> If you use Loctite the surfaces must be absolutely clean. No grease, 
> no rust, no crud built up in the threads. Use a new nut and bolt if 
> possible. Spray the bolt and nut with brake clean just before assembly 
> to make sure everything is clean. Do not use red Loctite, use blue. 
> When properly applied red will tear the threads off a grade 8 bolt 
> (I've done it!). That's a little more staying power than you need.
> Rick
>
>


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    Just occurred to me the best solution would be to weld the nuts to
    the backside of the mount (and use threadlocker on the bolt).<br>
    <br>
    Bob<br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 1/4/2016 4:36 PM, Richard Ewald
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote
      cite="mid:03B15EC2-1D8F-46F9-9D63-34172F1DD099@gmail.com"
      type="cite">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html;
        charset=windows-1252">
      <div>Under most conditions a properly torqued bolt won't come
        loose unless exposed to extreme vibration. Books I have read on
        race car prep are very down on split lock washers as the authors
        feel that the bolt has too loosen before the lock washer digs
        in. They much prefer using Loctite, new locking nuts or if that
        is not adequate drilled and safety wired hardware. </div>
      <div id="AppleMailSignature">Personally I think if you are going
        to go with lock washers go full Brit style. Bolt, lock washer,
        flat washer, bracket, shock, bracket, flat washer, lock washer,
        nut. </div>
      <div id="AppleMailSignature">If you use Loctite the surfaces must
        be absolutely clean. No grease, no rust, no crud built up in the
        threads. Use a new nut and bolt if possible. Spray the bolt and
        nut with brake clean just before assembly to make sure
        everything is clean. Do not use red Loctite, use blue. When
        properly applied red will tear the threads off a grade 8 bolt
        (I've done it!). That's a little more staying power than you
        need. </div>
      <div id="AppleMailSignature">Rick</div>
      <div id="AppleMailSignature"><br>
        <br>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
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