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Are you using a black rotor arm? I had a similar problem that was resolved b=
y changing to a red rotor with no rivet.
Apparently the black colour of the plastic is created by using carbon - whic=
h can be an HT conductor if a crack appears usually from the rivet.
Keep us all in the loop.
Bluehealey.com
Alan - from my iPad
> On 19 Mar 2019, at 17:45, Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmail.com> wrote:
>=20
> Yesterday morning I went out for a drive and after about five miles the ca=
r suddenly died. There was no rough running, sputtering or missing leading u=
p to it=E2=80=94the car simply died. I coasted to the side of the road and a=
fter about 30 seconds since the key was still on I pushed the start button. T=
o my surprise the car started immediately, revved freely and idled smoothly.=
A bit perplexed I decided to drive on to see what would happen now that I w=
as paying close attention. The car accelerated smoothly and ran fine for abo=
ut 1/2 mile and then it died again in the same manner as earlier. I shut off=
the key, popped the hood and examined the ignition system. Everything seeme=
d fine=E2=80=94all spark plug leads were firmly in place as was the lead fro=
m the coil to the distributor. The power wires to the coil were tight and th=
e harness/connector to the distributor (see below) seemed fine.
>=20
>=20
> After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, turned o=
n the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started right up a=
nd ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage, about ten=
miles away and got there without any further event. Though the problem did n=
ot seem to be fuel related I decided to verify that this was not a fuel deli=
very issue. I have a double-headed SU fuel pump wired to a switch mounted ju=
st behind the driver=E2=80=99s seat which allows me to switch between pumps a=
s well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the car at highway spe=
eds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected the =E2=80=9Coff=E2=80=
=9D position it slowly lost power as I expected it to=E2=80=94but in no way l=
ike it had suddenly twice died 15 or so minutes earlier. This indicated I wa=
s not dealing with a fuel issue but rather something related either to the i=
gnition system or to the primary wires that run to it.=20
>=20
>=20
> This morning I dove a bit deeper to try and diagnose the problem. The car h=
as a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied to an MSD coil which has been in p=
lace and performed faultlessly for a number of years. I removed the distribu=
tor cap and everything appears to be okay, at least visually. The interior o=
f the distributor was clean and dry as was the cap, leads, carbon contact, o=
ptical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the use of a ballast resistor in the l=
ead from the power source to the coil and with the engine fast-idling I test=
ed 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 VDC out of it and at the positiv=
e coil terminal.=20
>=20
>=20
> I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted in the dash in place=
of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the ignition switch thro=
ugh a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pressure gauge sender=
line and then to the light. I point this out because both times when the en=
gine shut down yesterday the light immediately came on, from which I conclud=
e that the ignition switch itself is not the source of the problem. And thou=
gh I did not remove the ignition key switch the wires to and from it seem ti=
ght and intact.
>=20
>=20
> So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without findi=
ng something that appears to be defective but I don=E2=80=99t know where to s=
tart any further tests, etc. I also don=E2=80=99t want to simply wait for th=
e issue to happen again. BTW over the weekend I drove about 150 miles with n=
o issues whatever. Beyond installing four new plugs last week I have not per=
formed any work related to the ignition system. All suggestions/questions we=
lcome=E2=80=A6.
>=20
> Best--Michael Oritt, BN1
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>=20
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archi=
ve
>=20
> Healeys@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/blueheal=
ey@gmail.com
>=20
--Apple-Mail-7BAFADD9-ECB9-4814-A230-4DB877A2B8EE
charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Are you using a black rotor arm? I had a si=
milar problem that was resolved by changing to a red rotor with no rivet.<di=
v>Apparently the black colour of the plastic is created by using carbon - wh=
ich can be an HT conductor if a crack appears usually from the rivet.</div><=
div>Keep us all in the loop.</div><div><a href=3D"http://Bluehealey.com";>Blu=
ehealey.com</a><br><br><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature" dir=3D"ltr">Alan - fro=
m my iPad</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>On 19 Mar 2019, at 17:45, Michael Oritt &=
lt;<a href=3D"mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com";>michael.oritt@gmail.com</a>>=
; wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D=
"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><span style=3D"co=
lor:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif=
;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">Yesterday morning I went o=
ut for a drive and after about five miles the car suddenly died. There was n=
o rough running, sputtering or missing leading up to it=E2=80=94the car simp=
ly died. I coasted to the side of the road and after about 30 seconds since t=
he key was still on I pushed the start button. To my surprise the car starte=
d immediately, revved freely and idled smoothly. A bit perplexed I decided t=
o drive on to see what would happen now that I was paying close attention. T=
he car accelerated smoothly and ran fine for about 1/2 mile and then it died=
again in the same manner as earlier. I shut off the key, popped the hood an=
d examined the ignition system. Everything seemed fine=E2=80=94all spark plu=
g leads were firmly in place as was the lead from the coil to the distributo=
r. The power wires to the coil were tight and the harness/connector to the d=
istributor (see below) seemed fine.</span><br style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51);f=
ont-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;bac=
kground-color:rgb(250,250,250)"><br style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family=
:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-co=
lor:rgb(250,250,250)"><br style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana,A=
rial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(25=
0,250,250)"><span style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tah=
oma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,25=
0)">After scratching my head for a couple of minutes I got in the car, turne=
d on the ignition and pushed the start button. Again, the car started right u=
p and ran normally. With fingers crossed I headed for my shop/garage, about t=
en miles away and got there without any further event. Though the problem di=
d not seem to be fuel related I decided to verify that this was not a fuel d=
elivery issue. I have a double-headed SU fuel pump wired to a switch mounted=
just behind the driver=E2=80=99s seat which allows me to switch between pum=
ps as well as turn the fuel pump off. While I was running the car at highway=
speeds it ran perfectly on either pump and when I selected the =E2=80=9Coff=
=E2=80=9D position it slowly lost power as I expected it to=E2=80=94but in n=
o way like it had suddenly twice died 15 or so minutes earlier. This indicat=
ed I was not dealing with a fuel issue but rather something related either t=
o the ignition system or to the primary wires that run to it. </span><b=
r style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Gene=
va,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)"><br style=3D=
"color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-se=
rif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)"><br style=3D"color:rgb=
(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-s=
ize:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,5=
1);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px=
;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">This morning I dove a bit deeper to try a=
nd diagnose the problem. The car has a Mallory Unilite ignition system tied t=
o an MSD coil which has been in place and performed faultlessly for a number=
of years. I removed the distributor cap and everything appears to be okay, a=
t least visually. The interior of the distributor was clean and dry as was t=
he cap, leads, carbon contact, optical reader, etc. Mallory specifies the us=
e of a ballast resistor in the lead from the power source to the coil and wi=
th the engine fast-idling I tested 12.5 VDC to the resistor and about 5.5-6 V=
DC out of it and at the positive coil terminal. </span><br style=3D"col=
or:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;=
font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)"><br style=3D"color:rgb(51,=
51,51);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:=
13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)"><br style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51);fon=
t-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;backg=
round-color:rgb(250,250,250)"><span style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family=
:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-co=
lor:rgb(250,250,250)">I have a large low-oil pressure light that is mounted i=
n the dash in place of the original overdrive switch. It is wired from the i=
gnition switch through a 10 psi normally-closed switch mounted in the oil pr=
essure gauge sender line and then to the light. I point this out because bot=
h times when the engine shut down yesterday the light immediately came on, f=
rom which I conclude that the ignition switch itself is not the source of th=
e problem. And though I did not remove the ignition key switch the wires to a=
nd from it seem tight and intact.</span><br style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51);fon=
t-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;backg=
round-color:rgb(250,250,250)"><br style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:V=
erdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-colo=
r:rgb(250,250,250)"><br style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana,Ari=
al,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,=
250,250)"><span style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahom=
a,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)=
">So my question is: What do I do? I hate to throw parts at it without findi=
ng something that appears to be defective but I don=E2=80=99t know where to s=
tart any further tests, etc. I also don=E2=80=99t want to simply wait for th=
e issue to happen again. BTW over the weekend I drove about 150 miles with n=
o issues whatever. Beyond installing four new plugs last week I have not per=
formed any work related to the ignition system. All suggestions/questions we=
lcome=E2=80=A6.</span><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:=
#3333ff"><span style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma=
,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)"=
><br></span></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"color:#3333ff"><span=
style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,51);font-family:Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Genev=
a,sans-serif;font-size:13px;background-color:rgb(250,250,250)">Best--Michael=
Oritt, BN1</span></div></div>
</div></blockquote><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr"><span>________=
_______________________________________</span><br><span>Support <a href=3D"h=
ttp://Team.Net">Team.Net</a> <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html";>htt=
p://www.team.net/donate.html</a></span><br><span>Suggested annual donation &=
nbsp;$12.75</span><br><span></span><br><span>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.=
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f=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive";>http://autox.team.net/archive</a></span>=
<br><span></span><br><span><a href=3D"mailto:Healeys@autox.team.net";>Healeys=
@autox.team.net</a></span><br><span><a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman=
/listinfo/healeys">http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys</a></span>=
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v></blockquote></div></body></html>=
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