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Real Healeys don't have alternators.=F0=9F=A4=A3=F0=9F=A4=A3=F0=9F=A4=A3=F0=
=9F=A4=A3
On Fri, Jun 7, 2019, 8:55 AM Per Schoerner, <per@schoerner.se> wrote:
> It sounds more like your cutout switch is the culprit here.
>
> Per
>
> Skickat fr=C3=A5n min iPhone
>
> > 7 juni 2019 kl. 14:47 skrev R. Lindsay <050.rpl@gmail.com>:
> >
> > For the past few weeks I have been fighting a parasitic draw on my BJ8.
> It was running about .48 amps and would drain my battery in a day or so. =
I
> was told by a mechanic that a diode in my alternator must have blown
> therefore causing the draw. He also mentioned that my ground wires in the
> boot were loose which he tightened. I brought the car home, turned off th=
e
> power in the boot and 2 days later the battery was dead.
> >
> > So, here=E2=80=99s what I=E2=80=99ve done. I jumped the battery and sta=
rted the car and
> ran it for 10 minutes. I disconnected the charger and tested the battery =
-
> 12.48 volts. I then removed the cutoff switch and bolted the grounding
> wires together. I tested for a draw and got a zero reading. That was last
> night. I went out this morning (12 hours later) and the battery reads 12.=
33
> volts.
> >
> > My questions are 1. Is .15 volts a reasonable drop in voltage for a
> sitting car in 90 degree heat and 2. Can a diode in an alternator work
> sometimes and not at others. If it=E2=80=99s either =E2=80=9Cgood or bad=
=E2=80=9D all the time, I
> guess I need to presume the alternator is not the source of the draw. If =
a
> .15 volt loss over 12 hours is reasonable then removing the cut out switc=
h
> in conjunction with presuming the alternator is good (as it works fine no=
w)
> solved my problem.
> >
> > What does the wisdom of this great resource think?
> >
> > Price Lindsay
>
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<div dir=3D"auto">Real Healeys don't have alternators.=F0=9F=A4=A3=F0=
=9F=A4=A3=F0=9F=A4=A3=F0=9F=A4=A3</div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div =
dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Fri, Jun 7, 2019, 8:55 AM Per Schoerner=
, <<a href=3D"mailto:per@schoerner.se";>per@schoerner.se</a>> wrote:<b=
r></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border=
-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">It sounds more like your cutout swit=
ch is the culprit here.<br>
<br>
Per<br>
<br>
Skickat fr=C3=A5n min iPhone<br>
<br>
> 7 juni 2019 kl. 14:47 skrev R. Lindsay <<a href=3D"mailto:050.rpl@g=
mail.com" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">050.rpl@gmail.com</a>>:<b=
r>
> <br>
> For the past few weeks I have been fighting a parasitic draw on my BJ8=
. It was running about .48 amps and would drain my battery in a day or so. =
I was told by a mechanic that a diode in my alternator must have blown ther=
efore causing the draw. He also mentioned that my ground wires in the boot =
were loose which he tightened. I brought the car home, turned off the power=
in the boot and 2 days later the battery was dead. <br>
> <br>
> So, here=E2=80=99s what I=E2=80=99ve done. I jumped the battery and st=
arted the car and ran it for 10 minutes. I disconnected the charger and tes=
ted the battery - 12.48 volts. I then removed the cutoff switch and bolted =
the grounding wires together. I tested for a draw and got a zero reading. T=
hat was last night. I went out this morning (12 hours later) and the batter=
y reads 12.33 volts. <br>
> <br>
> My questions are 1. Is .15 volts a reasonable drop in voltage for a si=
tting car in 90 degree heat and 2. Can a diode in an alternator work someti=
mes and not at others. If it=E2=80=99s either =E2=80=9Cgood or bad=E2=80=9D=
all the time, I guess I need to presume the alternator is not the source o=
f the draw. If a .15 volt loss over 12 hours is reasonable then removing th=
e cut out switch in conjunction with presuming the alternator is good (as i=
t works fine now) solved my problem. <br>
> <br>
> What does the wisdom of this great resource think?<br>
> <br>
> Price Lindsay<br>
<br>
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</blockquote></div>
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