healeys
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Re: [Healeys] Electric Draw

To: "'R. Lindsay'" <050.rpl@gmail.com>, "'Healey List'" <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Electric Draw
From: "Gil Rockwell" <gilrockwell@gmail.com>
Date: Fri, 7 Jun 2019 10:04:18 -0400
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: healeys@autox.team.net
References: <C5567577-C720-4D54-A363-8161A2E25CCB@gmail.com>
Thread-index: AQHKuBnQ8Sk0LRzqFW3OhLlV60Nobqak+t2A
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Hi Price,

 

The easiest way to find the phantom draw is to put a 12 volt bulb (use a so=
cket for the bulb with a couple of pieces of wire to connect to the battery=
 using "alligator clips" if available) or non-LED test light in series with=
 the positive lead of the battery cable (at the battery) and with the ignit=
ion off, look at the bulb.  If glowing, then start disconnecting one item a=
t a time until it goes out.  If the diode in the alternator is bad, disconn=
ecting the positive lead at the alternator will extinguish the light.  Heat=
 may cause the diode to "leak" current and once it cools down, it may stop,=
 so it may be heat dependent.  In any case, an alternator repair shop can t=
est and replace it for you.  You also can buy, typically at NAPA and replac=
ement diode assembly and install it yourself, not hard to do, use an impact=
 wrench to remove the pulley nut and then the screws holding the case toget=
her and slip it apart.  The hardest part is holding back the brushes when r=
e-assembling, but there are holes that a straightened paper clip will fit i=
n the hold the brushes back until you re-assemble.  If not the diodes in th=
e alternator, it can be anything electrical, so disconnecting obvious loads=
 individually will always find the culprit.  Not disconnecting more than on=
e load at a time is important so that you don't go down a "rabbit hole" cha=
sing many things at once.   If you have a radio, that may be a good place t=
o start, lights are always a possibility, have you checked the brake lights=
?  Are they staying on?  Pulling the fuses, one a time can ease the task of=
 finding a circuit that is draining the battery.  If the battery disconnect=
 switch is truly "off", there should be no current flowing from the battery=
 and the voltage should remain within a few tenths of a volt of the origina=
l reading  when measured at the battery terminals after shutting the car of=
f, even a day or two later.  

 

I can answer more direct questions after you have tried a few of the above =
suggestions. 

 

Gil

61 BT7

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of R. Linds=
ay
Sent: Friday, June 07, 2019 8:47 AM
To: Healey List
Subject: [Healeys] Electric Draw

 

For the past few weeks I have been fighting a parasitic draw on my BJ8. It =
was running about .48 amps and would drain my battery in a day or so. I was=
 told by a mechanic that a diode in my alternator must have blown therefore=
 causing the draw. He also mentioned that my ground wires in the boot were =
loose which he tightened. I brought the car home, turned off the power in t=
he boot and 2 days later the battery was dead. 

 

So, here=E2=80=99s what I=E2=80=99ve done. I jumped the battery and started=
 the car and ran it for 10 minutes. I disconnected the charger and tested t=
he battery - 12.48 volts. I then removed the cutoff switch and bolted the g=
rounding wires together. I tested for a draw and got a zero reading. That w=
as last night. I went out this morning (12 hours later) and the battery rea=
ds 12.33 volts. 

 

My questions are 1. Is .15 volts a reasonable drop in voltage for a sitting=
 car in 90 degree heat and 2. Can a diode in an alternator work sometimes a=
nd not at others. If it=E2=80=99s either =E2=80=9Cgood or bad=E2=80=9D all =
the time, I guess I need to presume the alternator is not the source of the=
 draw. If a .15 volt loss over 12 hours is reasonable then removing the cut=
 out switch in conjunction with presuming the alternator is good (as it wor=
ks fine now) solved my problem. 

 

What does the wisdom of this great resource think?

 

Price Lindsay

 

Cell: 630-841-6300

Email: 050.rpl@gmail.com

 

Sent from my iPhone



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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue vli=
nk=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoPlainText>Hi Price,<o:p=
></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoPlainText><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoPlain=
Text>The easiest way to find the phantom draw is to put a 12 volt bulb (use=
 a socket for the bulb with a couple of pieces of wire to connect to the ba=
ttery using &quot;alligator clips&quot; if available) or <u>non</u>-LED tes=
t light in series with the positive lead of the battery cable (at the batte=
ry) and with the ignition off, look at the bulb.=C2=A0 If glowing, then sta=
rt disconnecting one item at a time until it goes out.=C2=A0 If the diode i=
n the alternator is bad, disconnecting the positive lead at the alternator =
will extinguish the light.=C2=A0 Heat may cause the diode to &quot;leak&quo=
t; current and once it cools down, it may stop, so it may be heat dependent=
=2E=C2=A0 In any case, an alternator repair shop can test and replace it fo=
r you.=C2=A0 You also can buy, typically at NAPA and replacement diode asse=
mbly and install it yourself, not hard to do, use an impact wrench to remov=
e the pulley nut and then the screws holding the case together and slip it =
apart.=C2=A0 The hardest part is holding back the brushes when re-assemblin=
g, but there are holes that a straightened paper clip will fit in the hold =
the brushes back until you re-assemble.=C2=A0 If not the diodes in the alte=
rnator, it can be anything electrical, so disconnecting obvious loads indiv=
idually will always find the culprit.=C2=A0 Not disconnecting more than one=
 load at a time is important so that you don't go down a &quot;rabbit hole&=
quot; chasing many things at once. =C2=A0=C2=A0If you have a radio, that ma=
y be a good place to start, lights are always a possibility, have you check=
ed the brake lights?=C2=A0 Are they staying on?=C2=A0 Pulling the fuses, on=
e a time can ease the task of finding a circuit that is draining the batter=
y.=C2=A0 If the battery disconnect switch is truly &quot;off&quot;, there s=
hould be no current flowing from the battery and the voltage should remain =
within a few tenths of a volt of the original reading =C2=A0when measured a=
t the battery terminals after shutting the car off, even a day or two later=
=2E=C2=A0 <o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoPlainText><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p cl=
ass=3DMsoPlainText>I can answer more direct questions after you have tried =
a few of the above suggestions. <o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoPlainText><o:p=
>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoPlainText>Gil<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoPl=
ainText>61 BT7<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoPlainText><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><=
p class=3DMsoPlainText>-----Original Message-----<br>From: Healeys [mailto:=
healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of R. Lindsay<br>Sent: Friday, Ju=
ne 07, 2019 8:47 AM<br>To: Healey List<br>Subject: [Healeys] Electric Draw<=
/p><p class=3DMsoPlainText><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoPlainText>For=
 the past few weeks I have been fighting a parasitic draw on my BJ8. It was=
 running about .48 amps and would drain my battery in a day or so. I was to=
ld by a mechanic that a diode in my alternator must have blown therefore ca=
using the draw. He also mentioned that my ground wires in the boot were loo=
se which he tightened. I brought the car home, turned off the power in the =
boot and 2 days later the battery was dead. <o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoPl=
ainText><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoPlainText>So, here=E2=80=99s wha=
t I=E2=80=99ve done. I jumped the battery and started the car and ran it fo=
r 10 minutes. I disconnected the charger and tested the battery - 12.48 vol=
ts. I then removed the cutoff switch and bolted the grounding wires togethe=
r. I tested for a draw and got a zero reading. That was last night. I went =
out this morning (12 hours later) and the battery reads 12.33 volts. <o:p><=
/o:p></p><p class=3DMsoPlainText><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoPlainTe=
xt>My questions are 1. Is .15 volts a reasonable drop in voltage for a sitt=
ing car in 90 degree heat and 2. Can a diode in an alternator work sometime=
s and not at others. If it=E2=80=99s either =E2=80=9Cgood or bad=E2=80=9D a=
ll the time, I guess I need to presume the alternator is not the source of =
the draw. If a .15 volt loss over 12 hours is reasonable then removing the =
cut out switch in conjunction with presuming the alternator is good (as it =
works fine now) solved my problem. <o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoPlainText><=
o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoPlainText>What does the wisdom of this gr=
eat resource think?<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoPlainText><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p>=
</p><p class=3DMsoPlainText>Price Lindsay<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoPlain=
Text><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoPlainText>Cell: 630-841-6300<o:p></=
o:p></p><p class=3DMsoPlainText>Email: 050.rpl@gmail.com<o:p></o:p></p><p c=
lass=3DMsoPlainText><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoPlainText>Sent from =
my iPhone<o:p></o:p></p></div><div id=3D"DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FD=
F2"><br />
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