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An electric SU fuel pump will last indefinitely as it can always be
repaired/maintained. All you have to do is use the car regularly. If the
car (pump) has sat for a long while, it sometimes refuses to work as the
points may have become corroded. A piece of fine 400 grade sand paper
slid between the points will often solve this. Even new pumps straight
from the box carried this warning in the past as they may refuse duty
initially. I did 160.000 miles on the original SU pump in my car without
ever even looking after it. Even after I laid up the car it always
started without any problems at my yearly start up. Only after I had
left it for many years without starting up it refused to spring into
action. I only needed to clean and polish the points which had corrodedÂ
but still had lots of life in them. The same pump is now used on my
present car.
Of course you can get the solid state electronic version from Burlen but
I do sometimes hear of durability problems and I have experienced
several times that they need adjustment after a while. If they go wrong
it is usually not possible to get them working at the side of the road,
opposite to standard points pumps where you usually only need that bit
of sandpaper again. The electronic version is also polarity sensitive
which the points pump is usually not, unless it is fitted with a diode
instead of a capacitor. Pounding the pump with a hammer may also work
for a while but it is not a repair. It is an indication that the points
need cleaning/replacing asap.
If, after many years/miles the points may have worn beyond salvation it
is an easy job to replace them.
I have overhauled/repaired near to a hundred of these pumps and it is
usually a question of polishing or replacing the points, cleaning the
diaphragm, applying a thin smear of talcum powder between the kevlar and
two rubber membranes and fitting a new gasket under the diaphragm (easy
to cut yourself). Paramount is setting up the pump's points and
diaphragm properly. Just follow the instructions from SU. Easy to find
on the Internet e.g.:
/http://sucarb.co.uk/technical-electrical-fuel-pumps-reassembly/
I always replace the capacitor or diode by a transil. This will prevent
sparking of the points nearly completely and makes the pump dual
polarity if a diode was fitted. A transil is like a two-way Zener diode,
it will limit the max. voltage to a specific low Voltage (I use 18V
transils) which greatly reduces sparking.
If the valves are still airtight leave them alone or if you must change
the rubber seals only. Do not disturb the two domes if they do not leak.
Only in the rare event that the pump is dirty internally take it apart
in all its separate bits clean and fit new gaskets, O-rings, air chamber
membrane and seals. Hold on the the old 3-layer diaphragm if the kevlar
layer is still OK as it is of much better quality that the new Burlen ones.
Kees Oudesluijs
Op 16-2-2020 om 16:20 schreef warthodson--- via Healeys:
> Why do so many people replace an original SU pump that has lasted
> decades with an aftermarket pump that requires modifying the fuel
> lines, adding additional fittings, clamps & altering the mounting
> brackets (all additional sources of failures), vibrates continuously,
> etc, when it would be so much easier & more original to simply replace
> it with a new highly reliable SU fuel pump? If you are concerned about
> being stranded at the side of the road, carry a spare SU or even
> better install it in parallel & wire up a selector switch so you can
> switch between the two pumps.
> Gary Hodson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: I Erbs <eyera3000@gmail.com>
> To: Ahealey help <healeys@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sun, Feb 16, 2020 1:35 am
> Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5 psi |
> Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
>
> https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=7550
>
> Ira Erbs
> Portland, OR
> typos and errors generated by my phone
> _______________________________________________
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
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<p>An electric SU fuel pump will last indefinitely as it can always
be repaired/maintained. All you have to do is use the car
regularly. If the car (pump) has sat for a long while, it
sometimes refuses to work as the points may have become corroded.
A piece of fine 400 grade sand paper slid between the points will
often solve this. Even new pumps straight from the box carried
this warning in the past as they may refuse duty initially. I did
160.000 miles on the original SU pump in my car without ever even
looking after it. Even after I laid up the car it always started
without any problems at my yearly start up. Only after I had left
it for many years without starting up it refused to spring into
action. I only needed to clean and polish the points which had
corroded but still had lots of life in them. The same pump is now
used on my present car. <br>
</p>
<p>Of course you can get the solid state electronic version from
Burlen but I do sometimes hear of durability problems and I have
experienced several times that they need adjustment after a while.
If they go wrong it is usually not possible to get them working at
the side of the road, opposite to standard points pumps where you
usually only need that bit of sandpaper again. The electronic
version is also polarity sensitive which the points pump is
usually not, unless it is fitted with a diode instead of a
capacitor. Pounding the pump with a hammer may also work for a
while but it is not a repair. It is an indication that the points
need cleaning/replacing asap.<br>
</p>
<p>If, after many years/miles the points may have worn beyond
salvation it is an easy job to replace them.</p>
<p>I have overhauled/repaired near to a hundred of these pumps and
it is usually a question of polishing or replacing the points,
cleaning the diaphragm, applying a thin smear of talcum powder
between the kevlar and two rubber membranes and fitting a new
gasket under the diaphragm (easy to cut yourself). Paramount is
setting up the pump's points and diaphragm properly. Just follow
the instructions from SU. Easy to find on the Internet e.g.:</p>
<p><i><a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://sucarb.co.uk/technical-electrical-fuel-pumps-reassembly";>http://sucarb.co.uk/technical-electrical-fuel-pumps-reassembly</a></i><br>
</p>
<p>I always replace the capacitor or diode by a transil. This will
prevent sparking of the points nearly completely and makes the
pump dual polarity if a diode was fitted. A transil is like a
two-way Zener diode, it will limit the max. voltage to a specific
low Voltage (I use 18V transils) which greatly reduces sparking.<br>
</p>
<p>If the valves are still airtight leave them alone or if you must
change the rubber seals only. Do not disturb the two domes if they
do not leak.</p>
<p>Only in the rare event that the pump is dirty internally take it
apart in all its separate bits clean and fit new gaskets, O-rings,
air chamber membrane and seals. Hold on the the old 3-layer
diaphragm if the kevlar layer is still OK as it is of much better
quality that the new Burlen ones.</p>
<p>Kees Oudesluijs</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">Op 16-2-2020 om 16:20 schreef
warthodson--- via Healeys:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:1966594197.3793626.1581866407624@mail.yahoo.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div style="color:black;font: 10pt arial;">Why do so many people
replace an original SU pump that has lasted decades with an
aftermarket pump that requires modifying the fuel lines, adding
additional fittings, clamps & altering the mounting brackets
(all additional sources of failures), vibrates continuously,
etc, when it would be so much easier & more original to
simply replace it with a new highly reliable SU fuel pump? If
you are concerned about being stranded at the side of the road,
carry a spare SU or even better install it in parallel &
wire up a selector switch so you can switch between the two
pumps.Â
<div>Gary Hodson <br>
<br>
<br>
<div
style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----Original
Message-----<br>
From: I Erbs <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:eyera3000@gmail.com";><eyera3000@gmail.com></a><br>
To: Ahealey help <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";><healeys@autox.team.net></a><br>
Sent: Sun, Feb 16, 2020 1:35 am<br>
Subject: [Healeys] Facet Cube 12v Fuel Pump, 1/8 NPT, 2-3.5
psi | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies<br>
<br>
<div id="yiv7483245845">
<div><a rel="noopener noreferrer" target="_blank"
href="https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=7550";
moz-do-not-send="true">https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=7550</a><br>
<br>
<div>Ira Erbs<br>
Portland, OR<br>
typos and errors generated by my phone</div>
</div>
</div>
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