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Michael,
My general model has a lot of assumptions and will be directionally correct
but not exact. I assumed hot water from the engine goes into the top of the
radiator and cooler water exists from the bottom of the radiator. The base
case was a flow rate of 1 US Gal/Min. If there is a better average flow rate
for the AH water pump let me know, I used a SWAG to get the model to work.
If all other factors stay the same and flow rate is reduced to 0.8 GPM the
temperature into the radiator increased by 3 deg F and the temperature
leaving the radiator deceases by 2.6 deg F. I was trying to simulate the
condition when the car slows down and the water pump flow is reduced. If the
flow rate is increased to 1.2 GPM the temperature into the radiator
decreases 2 deg F and the temperate out of the radiator increases 1.7 deg F.
In the model I have the flow rate has the least affect of the four factors.
The lower the flow rate the greater the difference between T(in) and T(out)
but T(in) goes up as flow rate goes down.
I am the first to admit my model has many assumptions.
Does this agree with actual results?
Harold
_____
From: Michael Salter [mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com]
Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2021 2:53 PM
To: Harold Manifold
Cc: Healey List
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overheating
Not wanting to nit-pick Harold but I believe that this statement is
incorrect and could result in considerable confusion:
"If the water flow rate decreases by 20% the water temperature at the top of
radiator will increase slightly and will drop slightly at bottom of the
radiator."
Coolant exits the engine from the water pump and is pumped to the bottom of
the radiator.
With everything else being equal, a decrease in the rate of flow of the
coolant will result in the coolant staying in the radiator longer thus
allowing more time for the transfer of heat to air.
The result of the slower flow would be a LOWER temperature at the outlet
"top" the radiator assuming of course that the radiator inlet temperature
remains constant.
Of course with slower flow the converse will occur within the engine
because, as there is more time for the heat of the engine block to be
transferred into the coolant, the coolant will be hotter as it exits the
block at the water pump and travels to the radiator inlet "bottom".
We 100 owners think about such things a lot :-)
M
On Sun, Mar 7, 2021 at 5:27 PM Harold Manifold via Healeys
<healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:
Like many of you I have been cooped up for the past 12 months waiting for a
vaccine and for life to return to normal. I have been happily occupying my
time doing a complete restoration of a BT7 and had lots of time to consider
what upgrades or modifications are recommended to overcome some of inherent
Healey problems. I come to realize maintaining a consistent temperature of
the cooling water is an issue. With little else to do while in lock down I
looked into the factors that affect cooling to see if it would point to any
obvious upgrades. The design of automobile cooling systems is very
complicated but can be distilled down to a few key factors. Identifying the
factors that have the greatest influence on the system will help to point to
possible solutions or remedies. I will suggest some of the factors may not
be as obvious as others.
The job of the cooling system is to remove the engine heat generated. If the
capacity of the cooling system to remove heat (i.e. BTU's or HP) is greater
than the engine heat generated in all situations then the system will reach
a steady state. For most Healey's driving on flat road at 60 MPH when
ambient temperature is less than 80 F everything is in balance. For many
Healey's the situation changes at lower engine RPM's and vehicle speeds.
What are the critical variables that affect the water temperature the
thermostat sees:
1. Engine heat generated.
2. Radiator heat transfer coefficient.
3. Air temperature or more importantly the difference between air
temperature and the radiator cooling fin temperature.
4. Water flow rate.
At slower engine/vehicle speeds hotter air from the engine bay can surround
the radiator and the water flow rate drops. We can estimate the influence of
each:
If the air temperature at the radiator core increases from 80 to 100 deg F
the water temperature will increase approximately 20 deg F. All things being
equal the water temperature will increase approximately 1 deg F per degree
increase in air temperature.
If the water flow rate decreases by 20% the water temperature at the top of
radiator will increase slightly and will drop slightly at bottom of the
radiator.
If the water temperature was above the full open temperate of the thermostat
when driving at 60 MPH then the thermostat is no longer controlling the
system and the water temperature will change when one of the critical
variables changes. Often the conclusion is changing thermostats, fans or
using some exotic coolant. I will risk the wrath of this forum and suggest
one of the clues to solving the slow speed problem is look at what is
happening at 60 MPH. If the water temperature is above the thermostat rating
while driving at highway speeds then factors 1 and 2 above are likely the
issue. In other words there is no reserve capacity in the cooling system and
soon as air next to the core gets hotter the water temperature increases.
The engine heat generated is a major factor, the less heat the marginal
Healey cooling system has to deal with the better. If the engine heat
generated can be reduced by 20% the water temperature will decrease by 22
deg F. The factors that affect engine heat generated are: losses due to
friction, air/fuel mixture and engine timing. If the air/fuel mixture is too
lean it will cause the engine to generate more heat. A fuel pump that
maintains the minimum required fuel pressure at all engine speeds and well
tuned and jetted carburetors are important. The correct ignition timing and
the mechanical and vacuum advance curves are very important to reduce heat
generated.
Lastly we have the radiator heat transfer coefficient. The coefficient is
based on the design of the radiator, number of tubes, rows of tubes, type of
fins, density of fins, area of radiator, materials used to construct the
radiator, etc. The units are BTU/hr/deg F. If some radiator tubes are block
or have reduced flow, if the fins are damaged or fowled with debris, if the
radiator has cracks or spilt seams or if the radiator top tank is not full
the radiator will not perform at its optimum. If in doubt have a radiator
shop boil out the radiator and pressure test.
It seems some Healey's don't have a problem with over heating while others
do. One possible explanation is the Healey cooling system is marginal at
best and all of the factors that could affect overheating must be in harmony
with little room for forgiveness.
The upgrades I have done are a plastic 5 bladed fan, new stock radiator
core, 123 ignition and bungs on the exhaust for oxygen sensors. Time will
tell if these helped tame the cooling system.
I hope this helps and isn't killing a fly with an elephant gun.
Harold
_____
From: Healeys [mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Leonard
Berkowitz via Healeys
Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2021 7:08 AM
To: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Overheating
So first step is to make sure your temperature gauge is accurate. If you are
still running hot I solved the problem by adding an additional row to a
factory original radiator. Haven't had any problem with overheating since.
I had already tried adding an electric fan, an oil cooler and a Texas fan.
Nothing worked.
_____
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of
rfbegani@gmail.com <rfbegani@gmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, March 6, 2021 4:58 PM
To: 'Michael Salter' <michaelsalter@gmail.com>; 'Bob Spidell'
<bspidell@comcast.net>; 'Ahealey help' <healeys@autox.team.net>
Subject: [Healeys] Overheating
Bob & Mike:
You both may have seen my requests on overheating of my BJ8 and the response
from the group. As a result, I purchased an infrared thermometer to
determine if my water gauge was giving accurate readings. The thermometer
gun told me that my water gauge was 30 degrees higher than the temperature
of the sensor attached to the block. At the same time, I noticed my gauge
will show 120 degrees at rest instead of going down to 90 degrees which
would indicate a 30-degree high reading. In May when I leave for cool
Michigan, I will send the gauge to Nisonger to be rebuilt.
I began to test the temperature of the water going through the cooling
system at the inlet to and outlet from the block, inlet and outlet to the
radiator and the upper and lower hoses while the engine is running at idle
and at 2-3 Thousand rpm. The chart I created to record these temperatures
allowed me to produce observations or averages because the flow of the water
is dependent upon the rpms of the engine. The engine has overheated all of
the 40 years I have owned it and has only 1000 miles on the new speedo since
rebuilding to 20 over.
At the radiator inlet 134 outlet 85 at high rpms with electric fan
operating.
inlet 103 outlet 94 at idle rpms with electric fan
operating.
The above temperatures are recorded at the inlet and all along the hoses.
These temperatures indicate the pump is circulating water with sufficient
gallons to cool the engine only when the engine is at high rpms. At idle
the pump does not circulate sufficient water to keep the engine cool. This
is especially true when you have been operating the engine at high speed and
come down to 30 - 40 mph and stop and go traffic. Maybe the real answer is
to install an electric pump for constant cooling water?
In the past week, I have installed a large Dorman coolant recovery tank and
a new 7 psi 1 inch radiator cap because I learned that our radiators have a
long neck. Both those changes have reduced my problem of very high
overheating and resulting boiling over. In addition, when my water gauge
shows 212 degrees the water temperature is actually 30 degrees less or
approximately 185 degrees. Also, I am not boiling over and loosing coolant.
Nevertheless, the engine water temperature is still spiking to 210 plus
degrees true when coming off highway speeds.
In my review of various sites, the radiator equipment suppliers and others
are recommending increasing the pressure in the classic car systems to 15
psi plus, and coolant recovery tanks "if your coolant system, radiator,
hoses etc. is new" and therefore can hold the pressure. Unfortunately, I
have not found any maker of a 1 inch depth x 2.33 inch diameter radiator cap
except our 7 psi cap so I can try such a pressurized system.
Another suggestion on an older discussion at the British Car Forum indicated
some of the Ontario car owners had switched to Evans Waterless Coolant
rather than 50/50 coolant water mixture.
I still have no idea why a minority of our group has overheating problems.
More ideas?
Regards,
Bob Begani 67 BJ8
From: Healeys <healeys-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Michael Salter
via Healeys
Sent: Saturday, March 6, 2021 12:20 PM
To: Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net>
Cc: healeys@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Healeys] 100 water pumps
Yes Bob, there is something wrong with our assumptions regarding the cooling
system not being "large" enough.
My wifes Maxima is around 300 HP and the radiator has less area than the
100. Certainly it has a couple of very effective electric fans but they
really don't cut in very often unless you have the AC on.
I'm suspicious of the rate of circulation but I've talked to Larry Varley
about this subject and he indicated that increasing the size of the water
pump annular orifice didn't make much difference when he tried it.
M
M
On Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 11:42 AM Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
I sold my late father's 1955 Thunderbird to my BFF. These cars have a very
similar problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle. When Ford stuffed the
292ci Y-Block into the T-Bird, they found the engine was (essentially) too
short for the long-hooded car, so they 'engineered'--I use the term
loosely--a cast iron spacer to move the fan closer to the radiator. The
spacer had the added 'benefit' of severely limiting coolant flow through the
pump and radiator; there are some aftermarket fixes and my friend, after
doing the usual radiator re-core, better fan, etc. installed both a better
pump (larger vanes) and a re-engineered spacer. Attached pic is not of the
spacer he used--I can't find the link to it--but it shows the general idea
(Ford basically put a 'dam' in the cooling system to block flow, and the
improved spacers mostly remove it). It appears this approach has improved
cooling, though the engine probably still gets warm if it has to sit too
long at idle. Link is to one of the improved pumps:
https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car
/productinfo/8501HO/
Anyways, after doing all the usual stuff to increase cooling, esp. on my
BJ8, I've wondered if a similar approach would work on Healeys. Their pumps
have very small vanes, and the cavity in which the vanes operate seems
pretty small for such a large lump of cast iron (I'm guessing an uprated
radiator core won't help much if the coolant flow is still hampered; at
least, that's what I've found). This is probably not an option as, of
course, our engines don't have a similar spacer to be improved upon, and it
would be a major task to increase both the cavity's size and the pump (but I
can dream).
ps. The overheating issue with Healeys is usually attributed to too big of
an engine in too small of an engine compartment, and too little airflow.
But, the engine bay in an old T-Bird is huge by comparison--and the engine
not terribly larger in displacement--and still suffers the same problem.
Bob
_______________________________________________
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaelsalter@gmail.com
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<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dus-ascii" =
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<BODY>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN class=3D002553901-08032021><FONT =
color=3D#0000ff=20
size=3D2 face=3DArial>Michael,</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN class=3D002553901-08032021><FONT =
color=3D#0000ff=20
size=3D2 face=3DArial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN class=3D002553901-08032021><FONT =
color=3D#0000ff=20
size=3D2 face=3DArial>My general model has a lot of assumptions and will =
be directionally correct but not exact. I =
assumed hot water=20
from the engine goes into the top of the radiator and cooler water =
exists from=20
the bottom of the radiator. The base case was a flow rate of 1 US =
Gal/Min.=20
If there is a better average flow rate for the AH water pump let me =
know, I used=20
a SWAG to get the model to work. If all other factors stay the same and =
flow=20
rate is reduced to 0.8 GPM the temperature into the radiator increased =
by 3 deg=20
F and the temperature leaving the radiator deceases by 2.6 deg F. I was =
trying=20
to simulate the condition when the car slows down and the water pump =
flow is=20
reduced. If the flow rate is increased to 1.2 GPM the temperature into =
the=20
radiator decreases 2 deg F and the temperate out of the radiator =
increases 1.7=20
deg F. In the model I have the flow rate has the least affect of the =
four=20
factors.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN class=3D002553901-08032021><FONT =
color=3D#0000ff=20
size=3D2 face=3DArial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN class=3D002553901-08032021><FONT =
color=3D#0000ff=20
size=3D2 face=3DArial>The lower the flow rate the greater the =
difference=20
between T(in) and T(out) but T(in) goes up as flow rate goes=20
down.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN class=3D002553901-08032021><FONT =
color=3D#0000ff=20
size=3D2 face=3DArial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN class=3D002553901-08032021><FONT =
color=3D#0000ff=20
size=3D2 face=3DArial>I am the first to admit my model has many=20
assumptions.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN class=3D002553901-08032021><FONT =
color=3D#0000ff=20
size=3D2 face=3DArial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN class=3D002553901-08032021><FONT =
color=3D#0000ff=20
size=3D2 face=3DArial>Does this agree with actual =
results?</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN class=3D002553901-08032021><FONT =
color=3D#0000ff=20
size=3D2 face=3DArial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN class=3D002553901-08032021><FONT =
color=3D#0000ff=20
size=3D2 face=3DArial>Harold</FONT></SPAN></DIV><BR>
<DIV lang=3Den-us class=3DOutlookMessageHeader dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft>
<HR tabIndex=3D-1>
<FONT size=3D2 face=3DTahoma><B>From:</B> Michael Salter=20
[mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com] <BR><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, March 07, 2021 =
2:53=20
PM<BR><B>To:</B> Harold Manifold<BR><B>Cc:</B> Healey =
List<BR><B>Subject:</B>=20
Re: [Healeys] Overheating<BR></FONT><BR></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default style=3D"FONT-SIZE: small"><SPAN=20
style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: arial,sans-serif">Not wanting to nit-pick Harold =
but I=20
believe that this statement is incorrect and could result in =
considerable=20
confusion:</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default style=3D"FONT-SIZE: small"><SPAN=20
style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: arial,sans-serif"><I><FONT color=3D#0000ff =
size=3D2>"If the=20
water flow rate decreases by 20% the water temperature at the top of =
radiator=20
will increase slightly and will drop slightly at bottom of the =
radiator."</FONT>=20
</I><BR></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default style=3D"FONT-SIZE: small"><SPAN=20
style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: arial,sans-serif">Coolant exits the engine from =
the water=20
pump and is pumped to the bottom of the radiator. <BR></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default style=3D"FONT-SIZE: small"><SPAN=20
style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: arial,sans-serif">With everything else being =
equal, a=20
decrease in the rate of flow of the coolant will result in the coolant =
staying=20
in the radiator longer thus allowing more time for the transfer of heat =
to air.=20
<BR></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default style=3D"FONT-SIZE: small"><SPAN=20
style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: arial,sans-serif">The result of the slower flow =
would be a=20
LOWER temperature at the outlet "top" the radiator assuming of course =
that the=20
radiator inlet temperature remains constant. <BR></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default style=3D"FONT-SIZE: small"><SPAN=20
style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: arial,sans-serif">Of course with slower flow the =
converse=20
will occur within the engine because, as there is more time for the heat =
of the=20
engine block to be transferred into the coolant, the coolant will be =
hotter as=20
it exits the block at the water pump and travels to the radiator inlet=20
"bottom".</SPAN></DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default style=3D"FONT-SIZE: small"><SPAN=20
style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: arial,sans-serif">We 100 owners think about such =
things a=20
lot :-)<BR></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default style=3D"FONT-SIZE: small"><SPAN=20
style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: arial,sans-serif"><BR></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default style=3D"FONT-SIZE: small"><SPAN=20
style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: arial,sans-serif">M<BR></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_default=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: small; FONT-FAMILY: comic sans =
ms,sans-serif"><BR></DIV></DIV><BR>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_quote>
<DIV class=3Dgmail_attr dir=3Dltr>On Sun, Mar 7, 2021 at 5:27 PM Harold =
Manifold via=20
Healeys <<A=20
href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";>healeys@autox.team.net</A>>=20
wrote:<BR></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=3Dgmail_quote=20
style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid; =
MARGIN: 0px 0px 0px 0.8ex"><U></U>
<DIV dir=3Dltr>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2 =
face=3DArial>Like many=20
of you I have been cooped up for the past 12 months waiting for a =
vaccine and=20
for life to return to normal. I have been happily occupying my time =
doing a=20
complete restoration of a BT7 and had lots of time to consider what =
upgrades=20
or modifications are recommended to overcome some of inherent Healey =
problems.=20
I come to realize maintaining a consistent temperature of the cooling =
water is=20
an issue. With little else to do while in lock down I looked into the =
factors=20
that affect cooling to see if it would point to any obvious upgrades. =
The=20
design of automobile cooling systems is very complicated but =
can be=20
distilled down to a few key factors. Identifying the factors that have =
the=20
greatest influence on the system will help to point to possible =
solutions or=20
remedies. I will suggest some of the factors may not be as obvious as=20
others.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2=20
face=3DArial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2 =
face=3DArial>The job of=20
the cooling system is to remove the engine heat generated. If the =
capacity of=20
the cooling system to remove heat (i.e. BTU's or HP) is greater =
than the=20
engine heat generated in all situations then the system will reach a =
steady=20
state. For most Healey's driving on flat road at 60 MPH =
when ambient=20
temperature is less than 80 F everything is in balance. For many =
Healey's the=20
situation changes at lower engine RPM's and vehicle speeds. What are =
the=20
critical variables that affect the water temperature the =
thermostat=20
sees:</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2=20
face=3DArial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2 =
face=3DArial>1. Engine=20
heat generated.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2 =
face=3DArial>2.=20
Radiator heat transfer coefficient.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2 =
face=3DArial>3. Air=20
temperature or more importantly the difference between air temperature =
and the=20
radiator cooling fin temperature.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2 =
face=3DArial>4. Water=20
flow rate.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2=20
face=3DArial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2 =
face=3DArial>At slower=20
engine/vehicle speeds hotter air from the engine bay can surround the =
radiator=20
and the water flow rate drops. We can estimate the influence of=20
each:</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2=20
face=3DArial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2 =
face=3DArial>If the air=20
temperature at the radiator core increases from 80 to 100 deg F =
the water=20
temperature will increase approximately 2</FONT></SPAN><SPAN><FONT=20
color=3D#0000ff size=3D2 face=3DArial>0 deg F. All things being equal =
the water=20
temperature will increase approximately 1 deg F per degree increase in =
air=20
temperature.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2 =
face=3DArial>If the=20
water flow rate decreases by 20% the water temperature at the top of =
radiator=20
will increase slightly and will drop slightly at bottom of the=20
radiator.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2=20
face=3DArial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2 =
face=3DArial>If the=20
water temperature was above the full open temperate of the thermostat=20
when driving at 60 MPH then the thermostat is no longer =
controlling the=20
system and the water temperature will change when one of the =
critical=20
variables changes. Often the conclusion is changing thermostats, =
fans or=20
using some exotic coolant. I will risk the wrath of this forum and =
suggest one=20
of the clues to solving the slow speed problem is look at what is =
happening at=20
60 MPH. If the water temperature is above the thermostat rating while =
driving=20
at highway speeds then factors 1 and 2 above are likely the issue. In =
other=20
words there is no reserve capacity in the cooling system and soon as =
air next=20
to the core gets hotter the water temperature =
increases.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2=20
face=3DArial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2=20
face=3DArial>The engine heat generated is a major factor, the =
less heat the=20
marginal Healey cooling system has to deal with the better. If the =
engine heat=20
generated can be reduced by 20% the water temperature will decrease by =
22 deg=20
F. The factors that affect engine heat generated are: losses due to =
friction,=20
air/fuel mixture and engine timing. If the air/fuel mixture is too =
lean it=20
will cause the engine to generate more heat. A fuel pump that =
maintains the=20
minimum required fuel pressure at all engine speeds and well tuned and =
jetted=20
carburetors are important. The correct ignition timing and the =
mechanical and=20
vacuum advance curves are very important to reduce heat=20
generated.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2=20
face=3DArial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2 =
face=3DArial>Lastly we=20
have the radiator heat transfer coefficient. The coefficient is based =
on the=20
design of the radiator, number of tubes, rows of tubes, type of fins, =
density=20
of fins, area of radiator, materials used to construct the radiator, =
etc. The=20
units are BTU/hr/deg F. If some radiator tubes are block or have =
reduced flow,=20
if the fins are damaged or fowled with debris, if the radiator has =
cracks or=20
spilt seams or if the radiator top tank is not full the radiator =
will not=20
perform at its optimum. If in doubt have a radiator shop boil out =
the=20
radiator and pressure test.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2=20
face=3DArial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2 =
face=3DArial>It seems=20
some Healey's don't have a problem with over heating while others do. =
One=20
possible explanation is the Healey cooling system is marginal at best =
and all=20
of the factors that could affect overheating must be in=20
harmony with little room for =
forgiveness.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2=20
face=3DArial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2 =
face=3DArial>The=20
upgrades I have done are a plastic 5 bladed fan, new stock =
radiator core,=20
123 ignition and bungs on the exhaust for oxygen sensors. Time will =
tell if=20
these helped tame the cooling system.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2=20
face=3DArial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2 =
face=3DArial>I hope=20
this helps and isn't killing a fly with an elephant =
gun.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2=20
face=3DArial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2=20
face=3DArial>Harold</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2=20
face=3DArial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2=20
face=3DArial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2=20
face=3DArial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2=20
face=3DArial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2=20
face=3DArial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2=20
face=3DArial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV>
<DIV dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft><SPAN><FONT color=3D#0000ff size=3D2=20
face=3DArial></FONT></SPAN> </DIV><BR>
<DIV lang=3Den-us dir=3Dltr align=3Dleft>
<HR>
<FONT size=3D2 face=3DTahoma><B>From:</B> Healeys [mailto:<A=20
href=3D"mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"=20
target=3D_blank>healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</A>] <B>On Behalf Of =
</B>Leonard=20
Berkowitz via Healeys<BR><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, March 07, 2021 7:08=20
AM<BR><B>To:</B> <A href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"=20
target=3D_blank>healeys@autox.team.net</A><BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: =
[Healeys]=20
Overheating<BR></FONT><BR></DIV>
<DIV></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)">So=20
first step is to make sure your temperature gauge is accurate. If you =
are=20
still running hot I solved the problem by adding an additional row to =
a=20
factory original radiator. Haven't had any problem with =
overheating=20
since. I had already tried adding an electric fan, an oil cooler and a =
Texas=20
fan. Nothing worked. </DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV id=3Dgmail-m_2507401075191523387appendonsend></DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; =
COLOR: rgb(0,0,0)"><BR></DIV>
<HR style=3D"WIDTH: 98%; DISPLAY: inline-block">
<DIV id=3Dgmail-m_2507401075191523387divRplyFwdMsg dir=3Dltr><FONT=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt" color=3D#000000 face=3D"Calibri, =
sans-serif"><B>From:</B>=20
Healeys <<A href=3D"mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"=20
target=3D_blank>healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</A>> on behalf of <A =
href=3D"mailto:rfbegani@gmail.com"; =
target=3D_blank>rfbegani@gmail.com</A> <<A=20
href=3D"mailto:rfbegani@gmail.com"=20
target=3D_blank>rfbegani@gmail.com</A>><BR><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, =
March 6,=20
2021 4:58 PM<BR><B>To:</B> 'Michael Salter' <<A=20
href=3D"mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com"=20
target=3D_blank>michaelsalter@gmail.com</A>>; 'Bob Spidell' <<A=20
href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"; =
target=3D_blank>bspidell@comcast.net</A>>;=20
'Ahealey help' <<A href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"=20
target=3D_blank>healeys@autox.team.net</A>><BR><B>Subject:</B> =
[Healeys]=20
Overheating</FONT>=20
<DIV> </DIV></DIV>
<DIV lang=3DEN-US style=3D"overflow-wrap: break-word">
<DIV>
<P style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'>Bob &=20
Mike:</SPAN></P>
<P style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Arial",sans-serif'></SPAN> </P>
<P style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'>You both =
may have=20
seen my requests on overheating of my BJ8 and the response from the=20
group. As a result, I purchased an infrared thermometer to =
determine if=20
my water gauge was giving accurate readings. The thermometer gun =
told me=20
that my water gauge was 30 degrees higher than the temperature of the =
sensor=20
attached to the block. At the same time, I noticed my gauge will =
show=20
120 degrees at rest instead of going down to 90 degrees which would =
indicate a=20
30-degree high reading. In May when I leave for cool Michigan, I =
will=20
send the gauge to Nisonger to be rebuilt.</SPAN></P>
<P style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Arial",sans-serif'></SPAN> </P>
<P style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'>I began to =
test the=20
temperature of the water going through the cooling system at the inlet =
to and=20
outlet from the block, inlet and outlet to the radiator and the upper =
and=20
lower hoses while the engine is running at idle and at 2-3 Thousand =
rpm. =20
The chart I created to record these temperatures allowed me to produce =
observations or averages because the flow of the water is dependent =
upon the=20
rpms of the engine. The engine has overheated all of the 40 =
years I have=20
owned it and has only 1000 miles on the new speedo since rebuilding to =
20=20
over. </SPAN></P>
<P style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Arial",sans-serif'></SPAN> </P>
<P style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'>At the =
radiator inlet=20
134 outlet 85 at high rpms with electric fan operating.</SPAN></P>
<P style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Arial",sans-serif'>  =
; =
=20
inlet 103 outlet 94 at idle rpms with electric fan operating. =
</SPAN></P>
<P style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Arial",sans-serif'></SPAN> </P>
<P style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'>The above=20
temperatures are recorded at the inlet and all along the =
hoses.</SPAN></P>
<P style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Arial",sans-serif'></SPAN> </P>
<P style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'>These =
temperatures=20
indicate the pump is circulating water with sufficient gallons to cool =
the=20
engine only when the engine is at high rpms. At idle the pump =
does not=20
circulate sufficient water to keep the engine cool. This is =
especially=20
true when you have been operating the engine at high speed and come =
down to 30=20
– 40 mph and stop and go traffic. Maybe the real answer is =
to install an=20
electric pump for constant cooling water?</SPAN></P>
<P style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Arial",sans-serif'></SPAN> </P>
<P style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'>In the past =
week, I=20
have installed a large Dorman coolant recovery tank and a new 7 psi 1 =
inch=20
radiator cap because I learned that our radiators have a long =
neck. Both=20
those changes have reduced my problem of very high overheating and =
resulting=20
boiling over. In addition, when my water gauge shows 212 degrees =
the=20
water temperature is actually 30 degrees less or approximately 185=20
degrees. Also, I am not boiling over and loosing coolant. =20
Nevertheless, the engine water temperature is still spiking to 210 =
plus=20
degrees true when coming off highway speeds. </SPAN></P>
<P style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Arial",sans-serif'></SPAN> </P>
<P style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'>In my =
review of=20
various sites, the radiator equipment suppliers and others are =
recommending=20
increasing the pressure in the classic car systems to 15 psi plus, and =
coolant=20
recovery tanks “if your coolant system, radiator, hoses etc. is =
new” and=20
therefore can hold the pressure. Unfortunately, I have not found =
any=20
maker of a 1 inch depth x 2.33 inch diameter radiator cap except our 7 =
psi cap=20
so I can try such a pressurized system.</SPAN></P>
<P style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Arial",sans-serif'></SPAN> </P>
<P style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'>Another =
suggestion on=20
an older discussion at the British Car Forum indicated some of the =
Ontario car=20
owners had switched to Evans Waterless Coolant rather than 50/50 =
coolant water=20
mixture.</SPAN></P>
<P style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Arial",sans-serif'></SPAN> </P>
<P style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'>I still =
have no idea=20
why a minority of our group has overheating problems. More=20
ideas?</SPAN></P>
<P style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Arial",sans-serif'></SPAN> </P>
<P style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Arial",sans-serif'>Regards,</SPAN></P>
<P style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Arial",sans-serif'></SPAN> </P>
<P style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'>Bob Begani =
67 BJ8=20
</SPAN></P>
<P style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 14pt; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Arial",sans-serif'></SPAN> </P>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BORDER-TOP: rgb(225,225,225) 1pt solid; BORDER-RIGHT: medium =
none; BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; PADDING-TOP: 3pt; =
PADDING-LEFT: 0in; BORDER-LEFT: medium none; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in">
<P=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"><B>From:</B>=20
Healeys <<A href=3D"mailto:healeys-bounces@autox.team.net"=20
target=3D_blank>healeys-bounces@autox.team.net</A>> <B>On Behalf Of =
</B>Michael Salter via Healeys<BR><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, March 6, 2021 =
12:20=20
PM<BR><B>To:</B> Bob Spidell <<A =
href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"=20
target=3D_blank>bspidell@comcast.net</A>><BR><B>Cc:</B> <A=20
href=3D"mailto:healeys@autox.team.net"=20
target=3D_blank>healeys@autox.team.net</A><BR><B>Subject:</B> Re: =
[Healeys] 100=20
water pumps</P></DIV>
<P=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"> </P>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<P style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'>Yes Bob, =
there is=20
something wrong with our assumptions regarding the cooling system not =
being=20
"large" enough. </SPAN><SPAN style=3D"FONT-SIZE: =
12pt"></SPAN></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'>My wifes =
Maxima is=20
around 300 HP and the radiator has less area than the 100. Certainly =
it has a=20
couple of very effective electric fans but they really don't cut in =
very often=20
unless you have the AC on.</SPAN><SPAN=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt"></SPAN></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Arial",sans-serif'>I'm =
suspicious of the=20
rate of circulation but I've talked to Larry Varley about this subject =
and he=20
indicated that increasing the size of the water pump annular orifice =
didn't=20
make much difference when he tried it.</SPAN><SPAN=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt"></SPAN></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"><SPAN=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt"></SPAN> </P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: =
"Arial",sans-serif'>M</SPAN><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Comic Sans =
MS"'></SPAN></P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Comic Sans =
MS"'></SPAN> </P></DIV>
<DIV>
<P style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"><SPAN=20
style=3D'FONT-SIZE: 12pt; FONT-FAMILY: "Comic Sans =
MS"'>M</SPAN></P></DIV></DIV>
<P=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in"> </P>
<DIV>
<DIV>
<P style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in">On=20
Sat, Mar 6, 2021 at 11:42 AM Bob Spidell <<A=20
href=3D"mailto:bspidell@comcast.net"; =
target=3D_blank>bspidell@comcast.net</A>>=20
wrote:</P></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-TOP: medium none; BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; =
BORDER-BOTTOM: medium none; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; PADDING-TOP: 0in; =
PADDING-LEFT: 6pt; MARGIN-LEFT: 4.8pt; BORDER-LEFT: 1pt solid; =
PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0in">
<DIV>
<P=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in 0in 12pt 11.4pt">I=20
sold my late father's 1955 Thunderbird to my BFF. These cars have a =
very=20
similar problem to Healeys overheating, esp. at idle. When Ford =
stuffed the=20
292ci Y-Block into the T-Bird, they found the engine was =
(essentially) too=20
short for the long-hooded car, so they 'engineered'--I use the term=20
loosely--a cast iron spacer to move the fan closer to the radiator. =
The=20
spacer had the added 'benefit' of severely limiting coolant flow =
through the=20
pump and radiator; there are some aftermarket fixes and my friend, =
after=20
doing the usual radiator re-core, better fan, etc. installed both a =
better=20
pump (larger vanes) and a re-engineered spacer. Attached pic is not =
of the=20
spacer he used--I can't find the link to it--but it shows the =
general idea=20
(Ford basically put a 'dam' in the cooling system to block flow, and =
the=20
improved spacers mostly remove it). It appears this approach has =
improved=20
cooling, though the engine probably still gets warm if it has to sit =
too=20
long at idle. Link is to one of the improved pumps:<BR><BR><A=20
=
href=3D"https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Outpu=
t-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/"=20
=
target=3D_blank>https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-High=
er-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/</A><BR><BR>Anyways,=20
after doing all the usual stuff to increase cooling, esp. on my BJ8, =
I've=20
wondered if a similar approach would work on Healeys. Their pumps =
have very=20
small vanes, and the cavity in which the vanes operate seems pretty =
small=20
for such a large lump of cast iron (I'm guessing an uprated radiator =
core=20
won't help much if the coolant flow is still hampered; at least, =
that's what=20
I've found). This is probably not an option as, of course, our =
engines don't=20
have a similar spacer to be improved upon, and it would be a major =
task to=20
increase both the cavity's size and the pump (but I can =
dream).<BR><BR>ps.=20
The overheating issue with Healeys is usually attributed to too big =
of an=20
engine in too small of an engine compartment, and too little =
airflow. But,=20
the engine bay in an old T-Bird is huge by comparison--and the =
engine not=20
terribly larger in displacement--and still suffers the same=20
problem.<BR><BR>Bob </P></DIV>
<P=20
style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; FONT-FAMILY: Calibri,sans-serif; MARGIN: =
0in 0in =
12pt"> </P></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV></DIV>______________=
_________________________________<BR>Support=20
Team.Net <A href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html"; rel=3Dnoreferrer=20
target=3D_blank>http://www.team.net/donate.html</A><BR>Suggested =
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donation $12.75<BR><BR>Archive: <A=20
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href=3D"http://autox.team.net/archive"; rel=3Dnoreferrer=20
target=3D_blank>http://autox.team.net/archive</A><BR><BR><A=20
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