Art Pfenninger wrote:
>
> These hand held impact wrenches also make short work out of getting the
> screws loose on the rear wheel drums.
> ...Art
>
> On Mon, 12 Jan 1998, Rick Morrison wrote:
>
> > Here again I'll have to agree with Trevor.
> > Yes you can break the screws loose with a flat steel rod.
> > But for about $15 you can get one of the most useful tools for working
> > on a LBC.
> > the beauty of most of the better Impact tools on the market is the drive
> > end is a 3/8 square drive, thus making it a great device for moveing
> > reluctant bolts/nuts, though admitedly, not as effecient as it is on
> > screws, Phillips and Pozi-drive.
> > Try it, you'll like it.
> >
> > Rick Morrison
> > 72 MGBGT
> > 74 Midget
> >
> > On Mon, 12 Jan 1998 19:42:08 -0600 Ray McCrary <spook01@mindspring.com>
> > writes:
> > >Trev, et al,
> > >The giant phillips headed screws that hold the hinges in place can be
> > >removed easily by simply using a mild steel rod to transmit the shock
> > >of a
> > >hammer blow onto the head of the screw.
> > >Place the steel bar against the head of the screw and give it a whack
> > >with
> > >a ball peen hammer. Don't hit it so hard that it deforms the screw
> > >head!
> > >Just give it a good jolt. Then, using a proper sized (giant)
> > >screwdriver
> > >just unscrew the little pains.
> > >Remove the splash shield behind the front wheel and use a 11/16"
> > >socket to
> > >remove the two nuts that retain the hinges.
> > >Don't forget to have a friend support the door while you pull those
> > >nuts!
> > >Regards,
> > >Ray
> > >
> >
I don't tighten mine up anyway. Rumour has it that they were only required to
hold
the drums on till the wheels got fitted further down the line.
PaulH.
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