Bill:
By the back side, I mean the side toward to bore opening. Where the push
rod goes in. You have to allow the piston to retract farther to uncover the
return hole. True, if you took it off of the front it would work, as long
as the cup goes farther back. I just happen to do it on the back side.
It does work though.
regular brake fluid does cause swelling of the rubber, and the Mfg. adjust
the clearences to suit. Silicon does NOT cause swelling in its original
form, as such everything leaked badly. Now they add an agent to "slightly
"swell the rubber. unfortunatly, The amount is sensitive, and varies from
brand to brand. Thus it swells a little too much causing the problem.
Skip.............At 06:24 PM 2/7/98 EST, WSpohn4@aol.com wrote:
>In a message dated 2/07/98 9:50:40 AM PST, kelsey@value.net writes:
>
><< On MG T and A cars, we take out the piston in the M/C
> and cut .050 off of the back side. This allows the piston to retract
> farther, and prevents wheel lockup. This works quite well. I got the tip
> some years ago from Jonathon Twist. >>
>
>The back side being the one away from the cylinder opening?
>It also works if you take it off the front side (the dished end of the
>piston), so the piston can travel forward a little further to expose the hole
>and allow recuperation of the fluid.
>Either way, It's something I prefer not to put up with.
>On the Twincam I have had the Dunlop caliper halves ground out and hard
>chromed and then ground back to size. Expensive, but you never have to worry
>about corrosion, even if you forget to change the fluid. I never forget on
the
>race car, of course, but the same Dunlop system on my street coupe, and on my
>old Jensen sometimes goes a while between changes, I must admit.
>
>Bill
>
>
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