Bob,
One other option might (I repeat MIGHT) be to use a product Loc-tite makes to
restore stripped threads. It is similar to Loc-tite except it is designed to
create a reusable permeant thread. My big concern here would be that there
needs to be an electrical path between the points and the breaker plate. The
base of the points should provide a current path, but I have had problems with
that in the past with a TR****h that I once owned.
I cannot recall the name of the product for sure, but save-a-thread, or form-
a-thread are ringing bells in the back of my very cluttered mind.
ALL DISCLAIMERS APPLY, Coffee is hot, objects in review mirror are closer than
they appear, YMMV
Hope this helps,
Rick Ewald
PS I agree about the female connectors, I have never been able to wind the
Scotch Brite up tight enough to clean them. <G>
In a message dated 3/16/99 7:27:35 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Lawrie@britcars.com writes:
> Bob........
>
> Didn't mean to put you on the spot, but you certainly had the perfect
> come-back. The point you made was one that needed to be made in this rather
> long discussion. It may be mysoginistic but we, too, always throw away the
> female bits....................
>
> As for the stripped thread in the distributor base-plate, I'd be surprised
> if JB Weld would work here. It's great stuff for many applications but I
> don't think it has the strength to build a thread in such a thin section.
> Grinding the plate, too, seems counter-intuitive as you will make the
> threaded portion thinner, therefore weaker still.
>
> My fix would be to drill out the rest of the stripped threads, then JB Weld
> (or solder) a nut on the underside of the plate and use a longer screw.
>
> Lawrie
> British Sportscar Center
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