Bill did you clean the points. If so did you use emery paper. If you did the
points will for some reason never work again. Emery I think has silcone in it
and
destroys points.
Also you may have crossed the wires. Carl
REwald9535@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 04/23/2000 6:20:42 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> saidel@crab.rutgers.edu writes:
>
> > 1) no electronic ignition I think. But first, what means electronic
> > ignition (told you I'm a novice with these things...)... The distributor
> > has points.
>
> Electronic ignition means that you DON'T have points, so if you have points
> NO electronic ignition
>
> > 2) I lost spark to the plugs when I changed the coil to a new Lucas sports
> > coil. When I put the old coil back in, spark was still lost. Wires to
> > the negative side...one goes to the tach; a 1000 ohm resistor is
> > connected to the + which does go to the distributor. Yes, I might have
> > mixed up the wires but I hear the starting motor turn and turn and ...
> > (which is a good sign?)
>
> Needless to say you put the coils in wrong. (Ed is off today, I'm filling
> in:-) Unless of course you believe that A) the new coil was bad and B) the
> old coil choose the exact moment that you unbolted it to die. The hint here
> is that the negative side of the coil goes to the distributor (the points
> ground the coil hence the negative side goes to the distributor). I don't
> recall what year your car is but on all the wiring diagrams that I looked at
> this wire is White/Black. The ignition system is independent of the starter
> motor circuit, so no matter what you did to the coil the starter had better
> turn over or you are in deeper than you think.
>
> > 3) Reading voltage across the coil, no matter how long I charge the
> > battery, it never goes over 10 V.
>
> Check again with the points held open
> >
> > 4) I don't think I'm getting spark to the distributor because the wire
> > from the coil to the distributor doesn't spark across the block when I
> > tried that.
>
> >From which wire? Are you talking about the LT. lead (small wire from coil to
> SIDE of distributor) or the HT lead [big fat wire] from coil leading to the
> cap? With the cap off and the key on you should see a small spark from the
> points when you either turn over the engine or if you manually open the
> points with a screwdriver. If you do not see this spark then either you have
> put the points in wrong or you have a problem further upstream (trace back
> toward coil and find out where the voltage went).
>
> > 5) Here's an out and out question. What looks like a capacitor (a small
> > blue jobbie) is attached to the + end of the coil. Its ground appears to
> > be the chassis because it is only connected at one end. What is this?
>
> Radio suppression. I have a silly question, you did bolt the coil in didn't
> you? (circuit is grounded through mounting bracket)
> >
> > 6) And the piece de resistance (as I mentioned to Carl), the jet does
> > not move when I turn the jet adjusting screw on one carb. I also do not
> > hear the squeal of what sounds like an o-ring as I do with the other
> > carb whose jet moves what I assume properly.
>
> This is the same as complaining to the doctor that you have an ingrown toe
> nail on your left foot, when he has just told you that you have a compound
> fracture of the left leg and gangrene is setting in. In other word first
> thing first. Until you got spark messing with the carbs is just screwing
> around. (told you Ed was off)
> Good luck
> Rick
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