Yes, I was thinking of the very hardware-store-looking heater valves in
TR-3s and other more primitive LBCs. You have to open the hood to adjust
it, but you'd definitely have a higher-flow, more foolproof device.
Probably cheaper going the plumbing supply route than figuring out if a
TR or Sprite one would fit. The only downer would be slower warm up in
winter (assuming you'd left it open)..
wcameyer had this to say:
>I took an old, dead, heater valve (like mostr, I had more than one!!). I
>cut off the base and drilled and tapped a hole in it - enlargening the
>original water port. nto it I screwed a short nipple (1/2", I think?), then
>an elbow, another short nipple, a gate valve, and finally another nipple,
>onto which the heater hose is clamped.
>Now, I open it in the fall and close it in the spring! Opening and closing
>the vent valve gives me control in between. An added bonus is increased
>water flow through the heater core, resulting in one of the most effective
>(warmest!) MGB heaters I,ve ever seen.
>t: MGB Heater Water Control Valve - Bad Engineering and Design
>> Once again, my ire is raised by the unbelievable placement and
>> of the Heater Water Control Valve on the MGB.
>> Anyone on the list ever try an alternative setup? Perhaps a valve from
>> other car that is less prone to failure? Maybe a deplumed line to the
>> Any suggestions would be welcomed.
>> Norm Sippel
>> '66 MGB daily driver/occasional vintage racer
'66 MGB GHN3L76149
If you're near Mountain View, CA,
it's the red one with the silver bootlid.