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Re: My First Post, LBC, and...Problem.

To: George Cahlik <styloroc2000@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: My First Post, LBC, and...Problem.
From: James Nazarian Jr <James.Nazarian@Colorado.EDU>
Date: Wed, 19 Jul 2000 17:01:39 -0600 (MDT)
George, this reminds me of a problem I has with an 83 Blazaer.  The
charcoal canister clogged and the car would have the running problems that
you described.  I bought a canister from the junkyard and it fixed the
problem.  See my other post for another possible explanation.

James Nazarian
'71 B roadster
'71 BGT ever so slowly turning into a V8
'63 Buick 215 

"Aerodynamics are for people who cannot build engines"
Enzo Ferrari

On Wed, 19 Jul 2000, George Cahlik wrote:

> Thanks for the advice David,
> I fixed the webpage, I forgot how unforgiving netscape is to sloppy code 
>(what I get for writing personal pages at work)
> 
> When I turn on the ignition (without starting the engine) the fuel pump turns 
>on and that canister you speak of that I have a picture of, pours... I mean 
>POURS gasoline.  I'm guessing the Midget has about a 6 gallon gas tank, and 
>conservatively speaking, makes 20 mpg in the city.  I filled the tank up when 
>I got it, drove about 40 miles MAX, and now I have about a quarter tank of 
>gas.   There might be a bigger leak elsewhere, but I'm almost certain this 
>cannister is excessively losing gas, but I could very easily be wrong.   
> 
> Thx. 
> George
> 
> 
> *********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********
> 
> On 7/19/00, at 4:16 PM, David Councill wrote: 
> 
> >George,
> >
> >Your link just displayed a black page. However, I did manage to check the 
> >two pictures. The first one is just a charcoal canister to absorb gas 
> >fumes. The fitting at the bottom normally has a rubber hose that allows the 
> >canister to vent (or release gas overflow) under the car. So this part is 
> >not really relevant to your problem.
> >
> >The second picture shows what looks like dual SU carbs. The part circled is 
> >your choke cable. If the choke was engaged your fuel mixture would be too 
> >rich and could account for your symptoms. However, once the car cooled 
> >down, it would then run fine until it warmed up again.
> >
> >Your problem could be fuel related. Or maybe its in the points and/or 
> >timing. Either way, its something that would be best if you fixed it 
> >yourself. You should purchase a good manual like the Haynes manual for 
> >assistance. You could also post your location - maybe a lister is nearby 
> >that could help show you the fundamentals of tuning the car.
> >
> >To check your carbs, you can have someone pull the choke in and out. 
> >Observe how it pulls the jet down and make sure that when the choke is 
> >pushed in all the way, the jets go back up flush with the fuel mixture nuts 
> >(at least this is how the HS4 carbs do it). The picture really looks like 
> >HS4 carbs to me but I thought they only went up to 1972. Maybe a lister can 
> >correct me on that - the picture in question is:
> >http://home.earthlink.net/~styloroc2000/george3.gif
> >
> >David
> >67 BGT
> >71 BGT
> >
> >At 04:00 PM 7/19/2000 -0500, George Cahlik wrote:
> >>Hello Everyone,
> >>Let me introduce myself.  My name is George, I am 21 and I've been 
> >>wanthing an LBC ever since my father sold his triumph when I was 4.  I am 
> >>new to cars in general, but I've always wanted to learn mechanics and 
> >>whatnot.   It wasn't until now that I could afford a car and I figured if 
> >>I were to get a car, I'm going to get  a car that I actually want rather 
> >>than out of convinience, there is some sort of romanticism to that.
> >>
> >>Well I finally got my hands on a '74 MG Midget, it's beautiful.  Has 
> >>50,000 original miles on it, pretty much everything on it is original, 
> >>including interior, paint, and engine, and it was taken well care of by a 
> >>sunday driver.  I suppose this could be a good and bad thing.
> >>
> >>Anyways.
> >>
> >>I anxiously awaited the arrival of my MG, and last Sunday I finally got 
> >>it.  It _ran_ perfect.   I drove it easily (I wasn't going to let my dream 
> >>die too quickly) and that evening I finally gave into pressure to teach my 
> >>girlfriend how to drive a stick.   The car, in the hands of someone 
> >>accustomed to automatic transmissions, naturally stalled out the first 
> >>couple of times.  I also had a hard time teaching her how to shift from 
> >>2nd to 3rd.  So, generally, our ride was a little rough, but that was to 
> >>be expected.   After about 45 minutes of abuse, and a stall, I tried to 
> >>start up the car, and it startd to run rough and backfired.  Scared, I 
> >>decided to quit the lesson and I had a horrible time trying to get home, I 
> >>couldn't achieve the power to go above 40 mph.
> >>
> >>I couldn't figure out what was wrong.   Yesterday I took a few pictures 
> >>hoping someone could help me out.    What I think happened (now keep in 
> >>mind, I know NOTHING about mechanics aside from what I learned in physics 
> >>classes in high school) is that the hose from the fuel filter came loose 
> >>or broke and too much oxygen and not enough gas was getting to the engine, 
> >>which caused it to backfire.
> >>
> >>I made a small webpage with my images of what I believe is the problem at 
> >>this site:
> >>http://home.earthlink.net/~styloroc2000/midget.html
> >>
> >>I really hope someone can help me, I honestly can not afford a good import 
> >>mechanic and I think this would be a good learning experience anyways.
> >>
> >>I would also like to know what is the proper amperage/voltage resistance 
> >>for the fuses in the Midget.  The car came with 25amp fuses (I forget the 
> >>voltage), but the person who sold it to me gave me 30amp fuses.   I know 
> >>25 amps is safer, but what is sufficient?
> >>
> >>Thx.
> >>George
> 


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