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Re: Cracked Head?

To: Stuart MacMillan <macmillan@home.com>
Subject: Re: Cracked Head?
From: "Andrew B. Lundgren" <lundgren@byu.net>
Date: Wed, 13 Sep 2000 10:26:39 -0600 (MDT)
Yep, those were the same details I didn't like. You also ought to install 
hardend valve seats while you are at it.  If you are oging to do that then you 
might as well smooth out the intake/exhaust ports.  Then when your call done 
fixing a crack by cylinder 2, the same thing can happen on cylinder 3.  

I just bought a non-crossover AL head instead.



On Wed, 13 Sep 2000, Stuart MacMillan wrote:

> These heads can be successfully welded as part of a complete rebuild if
> the shop has the right equipment.  Welding cast iron requires heating up
> the work piece in an oven, welding, cooling down in an oven slowly to
> prevent heat induced stresses, finishing off the excess weldment, and
> then installing new valve seats, guides, etc. and surfacing. 
> 
> The head should be completely filled with coolant under normal
> circumstances, so if you are seeing steam it is because you are losing
> coolant through the crack or somewhere else.  This is why they crack! 
> Usually there is plenty of evidence of dried, crusty coolant around the
> cracks or under them and they are easy to spot.
> 
> Find a good head if you can, but welding is also a viable option if done
> properly.
> 
> Stuart MacMillan
> Seattle
> 
> '84 Vanagon Westfalia w/2.1
> '65 MGB (Driven since 1969)
> '74 MGB GT (Restoring)
> 
> Assisting on Restoration:
> '72 MGB GT (Daughter's)
> '64 MGB (Son's)
> 
> Parts cars:
> '68 & '73 MGB, '67 MGB GT
> 


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