Max:
>Right, your car looks like it was built in January or February 1970. The
Right on, the door plate is stamped 1/70. :)
>engine # looks to be late 1966 or early 1967, in that the 18GB series ran
>from October 64 to November 67, with numbers 101 through 91175, and
>extrapolating from my early 66 car with engine # 28604. There are 2
>different body numbers, only one of which may be visible. The Moss list
>shows body # 27359 as the first 1970 model, but that might be the "other"
>body number, so the fact yours is a few hundred off shouldn't matter (and
>there seems to be a gap in the preserved data at that point, anyway). For
>instance my 2 body numbers are 072900 (visible) and 72616 (from BHM).
Hmm, the one I scribbled down was prominently visible in front of the
radiator on the drivers side. Where might the other one be hidden?
>From a practical standpoint, you pretty much have the best engine going --
>the last version before smog controls -- so count yourself lucky, unless
>you're in a state that requires inspection and testing of older cars. You
In Michigan, no vehicle inspection!
That's about what I figured. I was inquiring more for tuning differences
(same dist/vacuum setup? Same timing? etc.) than any great wish to change
my engine. With what you've given me here I think I can figure that out
now.
>are spared the air pump and air injection head, and the annoying pipe atop
>the rocker cover, among other things. Compare the drawings under Emission
>Controls in the Moss catalog. Originally you would have had an 18GH series
>engine.
What's funny is I think (I'll have to go look) that I have that stupid
little pipe on top. :/
Thanks!
Chris
'70 MGB Roadster
'75 Suzuki GT750
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