Barney and I achieve the same end by different means.
I suppose you could undo the bottom bolt, the one at the bottom of the
swivel pin. But, if you want to use the bolt again, keep in mind that it
is going to get all messed up with the dirt that you just cannot get
completely cleaned away when the swivel pin assembly is to be left in the
car. I forget, at this time, why you are disassembling the suspension.
If you are swapping springs or the rebound rubbers, seems to me that
lowering the pan is the better way. If you are rebuilding the front end,
then the method of disassembly does not matter.
My preference has been to lower the spring pan. Loosening the two
inboard bolts a little, then taking the weight of the car on the jack as
you pull out the two outer pan bolts will ensure that the pan will not be
uncontrolled. Don't go pulling out all four bolts---only the outer two.
Once the spring has relaxed and is out of the way, you can then remove
the two inboard bolts that you loosened at the start of the job.
Though the spring may be happy to be free, it is only moderate in its
expression of happiness. It won't go flying. And, no, the car won't move
at all, surprisingly. The weight of the engine in the car makes this
spring removal possible. If you don't have the engine in the car you
can't push up with the jack enough to compress the spring---you just lift
the car.
I am not a believer in working with a car on four stands. Seems to me
that that offers two more points at which a stand could slip. What I do
is to put the rear wheels up on ramps. I made them of three layers of
wood planking, all screwed together. They don't slip on the floor. Then I
set the brake and put gearbox in gear. Then I lift the front of the car
and support it with jackstands. I think this is the most stable position.
Bob
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