At 07:06 PM 12/30/01 -0600, Patton Dickson wrote:
>....
>.... What are the differences between the correct original block (18GB/UH)
>and what is in the car (18V672Z)?
Not much. They are both five main bearing engines, with the main
differences in the cylinder head, external accessories and emissions parts.
>It seems that the heads on the car now are the earlier heads (maybe the
>originals) as there are no emission provisions on it.
No air injection ports on the head until 1968.
>I also seems that I have the generator, not the alternator. ....
Generator was used through 1967, alternator thereafter. Changing from one
to the other would require a change in wiring and voltage regulator.
>Instead of the canister type oil filter, I have a hanging spin on type
>filter, I do not know if it is aftermarket or the later stock type, how
>can I tell?
This may depend on which gearbox and starter motor are in the car. Up
through 1967 the MBG used an inertial engagement starter motor with a
Bendix gear on the output shaft. These starter drive mechanisms protrude
through a hole in the back of the bellhousing, and these early starters
were round with nothing on the outside. From 1968 on the MGB used a
pre-engagement starter motor. This one has a large solenoid hanging on the
side of the starter motor, and the motor is a little longer (forwards) than
the earlier one.
Through the '67 model year the cars were equiped with a direct hanging
steel canister oil filter. This one hung at a slight angle directly from
the mounting point on the engine block and close in front of the starter
motor. The larger (and longer) starter introduced in 1968 wouldn't fit in
the space behind the hanging oil filter, so there was an inverted adapter
used to mount the steel canister vertically on top behind the (new)
alternator. In light of oil drain-back problems, a couple years later
there was a hanging oil filter adapter used that had an offset head to
locate the (hanging) oil filter a bit farther forward to fit in front of
the longer starter motor. I believe this one always had a spin-on filter
element. There is also an inverted spin-on filter mount, but I don't know
if this one was ever supplied by the factory.
For the earlier cars with the (shorter) inertia drive starters, there is
also an aftermarket hanging spin-on oil filter adapter available that
mounts in place of the original hanging canister, where the spin-on filter
hangs at an angle close in front of the starter. This adapter is quite
small, round, and fits between the engine block and the oil filter. This
one will not work with the later (longer) starter motor.
>What filter can I get locally at NAPA or Advance? I found a couple of
>sites talking about locally obtaining oil filters, are these what I need?
>
>http://www.mgbexperience.com/service/filters.html
>http://www.mgcarclubdc.com/oilfltr.html
Now the reason for this long prior explanation is that the small hanging
spin-on adapter uses a different filter than all of the others, primarily
being a smaller diameter. I have some of the cross reference numbers. For
the small hanging adapter I use the NAPA 1516 oil filter (which is made by
WIX). Another is the Moss 235-880 filter (which I have found in the past
to be a Fram filter).
For the offset hanging spin-on adapter and the inverted spin-on adapter I
use NAPA 1068 (also made by WIX), which does have the desired
anti-drain-back valve. I do not recommend any Fram oil filter, but for
cross reference purpose these Fram numbers will fit, PH 3600, PH 43, PH
3614 (there are differences in length). Also Cooper filter Z27A, Moss
filter 235-960, AC Delco PF-20, Motorcraft FL-300, Purolator L20081, WIX
51068, with all of these filters having the desired anti-drain-back valve
(the rubber flap you can see just inside of the vent holes around the
base). More filter numbers can be found here:
http://www.mgbexperience.com/service/filters.html
For some additional notes on my personal preferences for spin on filters
and various adapters, check
here: http://www.ntsource.com/~barneymg/mgtech/engine/of100.htm
The condensed version is that I rather like the inverted spin-on adapter.
>Will the later engine bolt up to the early transmission? I assume that I
>have the early transmission still in there, how can I tell w/o the car
>running or engine out?
Through 1967 the MGB used the 3-syncronizer gearbox with 10-inch flywheel
(120 tooth ring gear) and inertia type starter. Starting in 1968 teh
4-syncronizer gearbox was used with a larger diameter flywheel (128 tooth
ring gear), larger bellhousing on the gearbox, and the pre-engage type
starter. The 5-main bearing engines, 18GB-18GK and 18V, can be attached to
the early gearbox by using the flywheel and engine rear plate from the 18GB
engine (1965-1967 model years), when the first 5-main engine was mated to
the 3-syncro gearbox. Later units have variations in the gearbox input
shaft and the spigot bushing in the back of the crankshaft, but bolt-in
adaptations are available.
The primary trick to mating various engines and gearboxes is to use the
engine rear plate that fits the gearbox bellhousing. The 5-main engines
have a rubber rear crankshaft seal mounted in the engine rear plate, where
the 3-main engines have no rear seal. The toughest match up would be
mating an early 3-main engine to a later 4-syncro gearbox, as the gearbox
input shaft pilot is larger on the later units. In this case the input
shaft would have to be turned down to fit the smaller spigot bushing.
Okay jury. Did I get it all right this time?
Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://www.ntsource.com/~barneymg
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