Thanks Barney,
I'll make astudy of this. It looks as it is quite some work though.
The car is in a fine shape and the cause has been eliminated - air control
cable has been rerouted onder the steering column.
Cheers,
Hans
----- Original Message -----
From: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@ntsource.com>
To: Hans Duinhoven <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>; <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 13, 2002 11:45 PM
Subject: Re: How much current headlights
> At 09:49 AM 4/13/02 +0200, Hans Duinhoven wrote:
> >....
> >.... I plan to add a line fuse for the lights. What rating should it
have?\
>
> Total watts/12volts=ampers
> Fuse should be about 50% larger than the maximum current draw.
>
> >I have converted the original sealed beams to H4 halogens and I still use
> >the sidemarker lights.
>
> Halogen single headlamps should be 55-65 watts each on high beam. I think
> 100 watt headlamps are illegal in the US (but never heard of anyone being
> ticketed for it). Front and rear parking lamps are 6 watts each. Side
> marker lamps 2-1/2 or 4 watts each. License plate lamps usually 4 watts
> each (probably 2 bulbs). Brake lights, turn signals and four-way flashers
> are 21 watts each. Dash illumination lamps could be 1-3/4 or 2-1/2 watts
> each (unless replaced with higher output bulbs). Map light may be 4 or 6
> watts. Courtesy lights that come on when the door is opened are usually 6
> watts each, but retrofits could be as high as 21 watts. Interior dome
> light (if the GT has one) would be 21 watts.
>
> >I'd like to fuse the complete lights circuit or should I fuses the dash
> >seperately from the rest?
> >....
> >'71 BGT
>
> It would be nice to have the headlights on a separate fuse, or even a fuse
> for each lamp (if you took the time to run separate wires back to the
> dipper switch). Many newer cars have a time delay resetting circuit
> breaker for the headlights, so if it shorts and trips off it will come
back
> on after a bit, and if the short persists it will cycle off and on (with a
> fairly short on period and longer off time).
>
> Please don't bodge the wiring. Crimp or solder all wire connections
> (except plug-in connectors), and leave no bare conductors. If you modify
> the wiring harness do a nice job of tape wrap afterwards, just so we don't
> have to rag on you as the DCO or DPC in future notes. And any change from
> stock specification should be documented for future maintainance.
>
> Barney Gaylord
> 1958 MGA with an attitude (an only 2 fuses)
> http://www.ntsource.com/~barneymg
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