The only connectors for the switch should be on onto the switch itself. If
you have high resistance joins then cut, solder, heat-shrink and loom-tape.
Any double-connector, or even two single bullets, will do but introduce more
points that can corrode and fail in the future. The water temp has to get
up to about half-way between N and H on the gauge before the fan will cut
in, it also has to have enough water in the rad to reach the switch.
Linking the contacts at the switch with the ignition on should operate the
fan. There is an in-line fuse specifically for the original fan, if an
exposed wire is shorting out it will blow. After-market sensors often have
a capillary bulb that goes inside the top hose at the rad end, and offer an
adjustable operating point, but they usually come with the fan.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Root" <proot@iaces.com>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2003 7:13 PM
Subject: wiring connectors
> I spent some time (finally!) in the garage over the weekend (during
> the Wild game!) and was trying to debug my radiator thermo switch
> problem.
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