Ross Bateman wrote:
> Hi
>
> I am at the stage on my restoration (1968 MGB Roadster) when it comes to
> engine rebuild time and I am trying to put together pros and cons and a cost
> comparison of different options.
>
> Just to let you know where I am.
> The 1800 is stripped right down and on Saturday I took it to some chaps in
> the know. They confirm what I suspected that the engine is toast. The
> pistons are scored very badly and the bores are very well worn. I would say
> about a 0.5mm ridge at the top of the bore.
I'm no authority, but I have plenty of opinions. :-)
> Option 1:
> I have been looking at dropping a V6 chevy 60deg in now for a while. The
> problem is I am struggling to find one in this country. Will be calling
> around today to find out about having one shipped in.
The big advantage to this engine is it's so common here in the US. If
they aren't everywhere where you are, then parts and service would be a
nightmare.
> Option 1.1:
> Trying to find out if anybody has dropped a Nissan V6 in to a B before.
> This engine should be easy to come by and spares etc would be accessible.
This sounds interesting. I haven't heard anyone do it before.
> Option 1.2:
> The VW Golf VR6 is very popular here is South Africa and as such they tend
> to get rapped around things quite a bit. The problem here would be the
> engine management system and the VR6 is mounted transversely.
I wouldn't do this. The VR6 is a cool engine, but is expensive to build
and maintain. Mostly though, you said it, it's designed as a transverse
engine.
> Option 2:
> A Rover V8...... these are not to hard to come by and it will be keeping it
> in the family.
I'd guess those are pretty common down there and it's the historically
'correct' conversion. I keep thinking about it. Fortunately, lack of
money stops me from doing anything. That and my engine is running great.
> I get conflicting advice here. Do I need to change
the diff
> if I go V8 or would the current 68 diff be ok. (I would look at changing it
> in a few years but at the moment I would really like to get the car back on
> the road without spending all my life savings.)
I think you can. It is desirable to swap it out to a 8in Ford rear or
maybe and MGC rear to take advantage of the torque, and possibly get
rear disc brakes. From what I read, strength is not the issue.
> I must still look into what gearbox would be suitable.
The factory ones used the 4-speed. The 5 speed from the Rover/TR7/TR8 is
often used. Or the T-5 from a Mustang or Camero (sorry, that's an US
centric answer), I believe the Mustang version has the better ratio's
for the engine. If I remember what I've read correctly.
> Front disks would be changed to grooved and vented with green stuff pads.
> (Suspension is already modified)
Cool.
> Option 3:
> Replace the engine with a different 4 cylinder. This option seems viable and
> I would probably look at a Toyota Black Top (20 valve) or Ford Ztec. Again
> problem here would be engine management systems and what gearbox to use.
Or a Miata 1.8.
> Option 4:
> Machine the block.
I haven't had to rebuild an engine, so I'm not going to go here.
> If I am going to spend the kind of money I am being told it will cost me to
> just get this block back to standard by sleeving it and putting original
> pistons in, then I would rather do some more work to it and bore it out to a
> 1930 or 1950 as advised previously.
>
> Could somebody give me input as to what off the self pistons I could use and
> what machining work would have to be done with said pistons. (Moss stuff is
> just a little to hectically priced here) Nissan, Toyota, VW, and dare I say
> it BMW are all very popular here and I don't think the parts could be that
> expensive.
>
> Thanks for any input you can give me. At the moment I am at odds and ends as
> to what to do and to be honest, loosing all this sleep over an engine is
> starting to make me feel like I am getting closer to that visit to the
> padded room.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ross
--
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