It definitely alters the rear track but whether it is enough to cause tyre
rubbing on the inside depends on tyre and wheel width, but spacers and
longer studs soon compensate for that. Unlike fitting wire wheels on a disc
axle where I had significant rubbing on the outside faces of the tyres, even
with special conversion hubs that are machined so the wheels sit further in,
and eventually I had to swap the axle complete.
I have often wondered if the disc and wire hubs at the front are machined
differently to give a similar track since the workshop manual quotes only
1/4" track difference between disc and wire but putting the 'other' hub on
the rear axle gives about 1 1/2" difference. The book quotes identical
track at the rear. If they had used the wire wheel axle on both cars and
just machined the disc wheel hub so sit about 3/4" further out each side
surely it would have been cheaper than producing two axles and handbrake
cables, and we would have none of this problem.
PaulH.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul M." <rowman22001@yahoo.com>
To: <kmwheeler@ualr.edu>; <mgs@autox.team.net>
Cc: <MGBnutt@aol.com>; <Barn.Owl@verizon.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2004 6:05 PM
Subject: Re: From wires to bolt-on
> --- kmwheeler@ualr.edu wrote:
> > A word of warning: you can not just put on the rear
> > bolt-on hubs on a wire wheel
> > rear axle, the wire wheel axle housing is narrower
> > than the bolt-on, and you'll end
> > up with some tire interference (snip...)
>
> There is some argument on this point. I have spoken
> with half a dozen MGB vintage racers who have swapped
> over the hubs and left the wire wheel axles in place,
> and none of them experienced any problems. I
> specifically asked: "Won't that cause tire clearance
> problems?" and they ALL replied: "Bah! That's an old
> wives tale!" They seemed to think my concern was
> quite amusing...
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