Steve:
This is hopefully too late, and you have been able to pull the engine
and trans. Without problem.
1. Usually I like to have the car on it's wheels when pulling the
engine, as it is a lot more stable. With some engine hoists this is not
possible, as the legs are too wide to fit between the tires. Raising
the back of the car does make the leveling of the engine easier, but so
far I have never done bothered.
2. The hoist will need to have the longest extension possible, so
normally it would be set at 1 ton. This is still overkill, unless you
forgot to unbolt the engine fully from the chassis, in which case you
will be trying to lift the entire car.
The first car I used my folding engine hoist on was a rubber bumper B
and I found that even at the 1 ton extension the boom was barely long
enough to reach the balance point of the engine (about the #4
sparkplug). I fashioned a 1' extension out of correctly sized thick
wall tubing that slipped inside the entire length of the original boom.
This reduced the load rating of the hoist to approx. 1/2 ton but this
is more than adequate for the MGB 4 cyl. and Rover alloy V8s that I use
the hoist for. NOTE: ANY LENGTHENING OF HOIST BOOMS WILL DRAMATICALLY
REDUCE THE SAFE LOAD LIMIT. DO SO AT YOUR OWN RISK!
3. The Oberg makes the job much easier, but is not essential.
Typically it hooks onto the boom hook. The two cables of the Oberg are
terminated with eye plates which can be bolted to the rear manifold and
alt. mounting bolt holes. Use hardened washers. This allows the engine
to be safely tilted and maneuvered by one person. NOTE: ALWAYS HAVE A
HELPER TO SPOT AND RUN FOR HELP IF YOU GET TRAPPED.
Without a tilter, there are techniques for attaching a lift chain to the
hook of the hoist in a manner that the engine can be pivoted by a helper
and the pick point of the chain changed. Sorry, but I'm not going to go
into that as the chain can easily slip and the tail of the engine
assembly drop damaging the engine compartment.
4. Probably the front engine seal. Replacing this requires pulling the
fron cover, so you get to do the gasket too.
5. There should be just enough clearance to free the belt. Bent or
failed engine mountings can reduce the clearance.
Sorry for all the caps warnings, but you are pulling a heavy lump out
and it can really cause an owwie, if not handled carefully.
Good luck.
Kelvin Dodd
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net] On
Behalf
> Of Daybell7@aol.com
> Sent: Sunday, November 27, 2005 10:53 AM
> To: mgs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Clutch Tear Down
>
> MG Listers,
>
> I shot the TV and spent seven hours freeing the motor and trans in my
1972
> MGB. All I have left is the motor mounts. I removed the exhaust
> manifold,
> carbs, and alternator. The tranny mounts were gummy. Questions:
>
> 1. Do I have to take the jack stands down to remove the motor and
trans?
> 2. At what weight should I set the hoist? (one or two tons) Should
I
> attach a chain to the hook?
> 3. Is the Oberg tilt lift a requirement? Does it attach to the
hook?
> 4. The motor is caked with oil, especially the front. Is the gasket
I
> need
> the timing chain gasket?
> 5. The only strange thing I encountered is I couldn't free the
fanbelt.
> It
> is wedged between the pullys and steering rack.
>
> Thanks, Kelvin, for the step-by-step procedures.
>
> Steve Hughes
> Gainesville, FL
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