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Re: [MGS] Connecting a Trickle Charger

To: "David Breneman" <david_breneman@yahoo.com>, <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [MGS] Connecting a Trickle Charger
From: "Paul Hunt" <paul.hunt1@blueyonder.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 14 May 2007 09:09:07 +0100
Hooking up to any convenient wire that carries 12v when the ignition is off 
and the key is out of the car (i.e. the brown on an MGB) and ground will be 
fine.  Hopefully the charger will be fused and so any reverse connection 
will blow that rather than causing any damage to either charger or car.  If 
you have a circuit that is 'always on and fused' (like the purple circuit in 
the MGB) then you will have 'belt and braces'.

However you shouldn't leave a conventional trickle charger connected for 
long periods or it will boil the water out of the electrolyte.  There are 
'conditioning' chargers which are intended for long-term connection which 
modulate the amount of charge according to the state of the battery.

But having said that an MGA should be able to hold its charge for a couple 
of months at least.  If it doesn't either there is a drain or the battery is 
bad anyway.  A drain could be caused by any aftermarket electronics that 
might have been added such as alarm, or audio systems.  But if you have none 
of those and the electrics are standard and the battery good there must be a 
fault.  You can track this down by removing the battery ground strap and 
connecting an analogue voltmeter in its place switched to its 12v scale.  I 
say 'analogue' as I cannot be sure what results a digital instrument may 
give connected like this.  If you see anything registered on the meter there 
is a drain.  If you see 12v registered it is a significant drain.  Note that 
if the car has been fitted with an alternator you may well get a few volts 
registered, this will be from the normal reverse leakage of the alternator 
diodes and can be ignored.  Unplugging the alternator should drop the 
reading to zero.  Then  it is matter of disconnecting things that are 
'always live like (in an MGB) the interior light and horns fuse, then 
disconnecting the live wires from the ignition switch, lighting switch, and 
any other components that have 12v connected to them all the time until the 
reading drops to zero.  When it does, the problem lies in the last circuit 
to be disconnected.  Note I have no experience of MGAs so I don't know how 
relevant the above is.

But at the end of the day a battery disconnect switch is a good idea anyway, 
if it has a removable handle as something of an immobiliser, and for safety 
if one of the many (in an MGB at least) unfused 'always live' wires should 
happen to short out.

PaulH.




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