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Re: Cheap workbench advice wanted.

To: Matt Liggett <mliggett-receive-shop-talk@elise.kiva.net>
Subject: Re: Cheap workbench advice wanted.
From: "Peter J. Thomas" <pjthomas01@snet.net>
Date: Fri, 17 Apr 1998 23:37:49 -0400


Matt Liggett wrote:

> I really need to build myself a cheap, strong bench.  I need a
> splinterless surface strong enough to build an A-series engine on and
> strong enough to hang a heavy bench vice off the corner.

Build a table out out of plywood and Douglas fir and masonite for about $100.

Materials:

        1        4'x8' 3/4" sheet of plywood
        2        10' 4x4 douglas fir
        3        8' 2x6 douglas fir
        3        8' 2x4 douglas fir
        1        4'x4' masonite

Basically, make a frame out of the 2x6 lumber with 4x4 legs and 2x4
stretchers.

Two of the 2x6's are for the front and back of the bench.  From the third cut
3 sections each 20 1/2".  These are for the ends and a center support.
Do the same to the 2x4's.

Next cut each of the 4x4's into three equal sections.  These are the legs,
one for each corner of the bench, one for the center of the front of the
bench and one for the back.

Here is the most difficult part.  You have to notch out the tops of each of
the legs.  You want the 2x6 frame to rest on top of the 4x4 legs.  You could
just rest the frame on top, but it is difficult to secure the top to the legs
this way.

The legs can be notched with a circular saw.  Do not make the notch the full
width of a 2x6.  Leave is a 1/4 of an inch short.  2x6 is 5 3/4 " wide, make
your notch 5 1/2".  This will keep the top of leg below the top of the 2x6
frame.

After marking the legs, set the depth of the circular saw equal to the width
of the 2x6.  Make a series parallel cuts across the 4x4 leg in the area to be
notched.  You should be left a leg with a series of fins on the end.  Take a
hammer the beat on the fins til they break off.  The notch will have to be
cleaned up with a chisel.  The notches can also be made with a router; this
makes very clean notches

Make a two notches in each of the legs on two adjacent sides, the center legs
also.

This part is optional.  The 2x4's do not have to be notched, but it make for
better looking and stronger bench.  Each leg should have a notch to receive
the 2x4 stretchers about a foot from fthe bottom of the leg.  These notches
should be half as deep as the notches for the 2x6's.  Any deeper and you
compromise the strength of the legs. The notches for the 2x4 should also be
the full width of a 2x4.  Also, each 2x4's will have to be notched.

At this point assemble the bench frame with screws.  You should have three
legs in front and three legs in back.  2x6's running around the perimeter of
the top.  2x4's running around the 1 foot from the bottom.  One 2x6
connecting the top of the center legs and one 2x4 connecting the bottom.

Next rip the plywood lengthwise into two 2x8 foot strips.  Place one strip on
top of the bench and screw it down to the 2x6's.  Spread glue on top of the
bench and to one face of the other strip of plywood.  Place the second
plywood strip on top of the bench, glue side to glue side.  Screw the two
plywood sheets together about every 4 inches.

After the glue dries you have a very strongh 1 1/2' sheet of plywood.  Cut
the masonite and screw it to the plywood top.  You could also glue the
masonite down, but not glueing it allows it to be replaced.

This does leave the edges of plywood exposed.  You can then rip a 2x4 into
strips or buy some lathe.  Edge band the  and band the top with strips.

Since you will be putting greasy engine parts on the bench you will need to
protect the surfaces.  Paint the whole bench or even better, polyurethane it.

If you want, you can add shelving on top of the 2x4 stretchers.  This will
also stiffen the bench.

My father built a bench like this.  Sadly, he had a stroke and had to be
hospitalized.  We put his bench and his belongings into storage.  We piled
heavy tools and boxes of books on top of the bench all the way to the ceiling
with out any problems.

> I would like a
> 6'-8' length.  The more affordable, the better.  I may put this someplace
> where it's accessible from front & back, so extra-deep may work just
> fine.
>
> What have y'all done?
>
> Anybody have a good method for finding a good _standing_ work height?
> I'm only 5'5", so 'standard' dimensions probably won't fit me.

Stand up, elbows at your side, forearms horizontal, palms flat and face
down.  Subtract 2 inches.  I'm 5'11" and 36" (kitchen counter top height)
feels right.

Make your bench a little on the high side.  Work with it.  If it is too high,
cut a half of an inch off each leg.  Repeat this process until it feels
right.  Just remember, you can lower the bench this way but you cannot raise
it afterwards.

Peter Thomas



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