Hi,
My slight variation on this is to use angle iron on the edges. You can find
it in thicknesses to match the Masonite. Works really, really well--both to
keep the edge from getting mashed but also to provide a narrow ledge when
you really need to smack something hard. :-) Mitered the corners so that it
fits nicely.
And, as others have said, screw the hardboard down, don't glue it.
--Kent
P.S. I also use angle iron vertically where there are outside wall corners
in the drywall. Really cuts down on the "ah, crap" episodes when you bash
the corner of the wall with a rolling tool or materials. I also used it
horizontally on the outside floor edge/lip of the loft area above the
bathroom. I store parts up there so it again protects the drywall from
getting mashed.
-----Original Message-----
From: shop-talk-owner@Autox.Team.Net [mailto:shop-talk-owner@Autox.Team.Net]
On Behalf Of Charley Robinson
Sent: Saturday, February 10, 2007 9:02 PM
To: 'old dirtbeard'; shop-talk@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: bench top
For the uses you're describing, I'd make the top of a double layer of 3/4"
plywood and then cover that with 1/4" tempered hardboard. I'd also put a
trim strip about 3/4" thick 1 3/4" wide hardwood (oak would be good) around
that to protect the edges. The edging should be flush with the top of the
1/4" hardboard. This combination would provide a nice, flat surface that
would hold up well to the abuse it is likely to see. Once the hardboard got
really beat up and oil soaked, it would be an easy matter to replace without
the need to rebuild the bench. I'd polyurethane the oak trim and leave the
hardboard as is. A strong sub-frame of 2x4s would be able to support
motorcycle engines, trannies, etc. Be sure the wall cleats that hold the top
are screwed into studs.
Cheap, easy and very serviceable.
Charley Robinson
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