shop-talk
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: [Shop-talk] Brake system bleeders

To: <shop-talk@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Brake system bleeders
From: Jim Stone <jandkstone99@msn.com>
Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 16:19:32 -0500
Thanks for the education, guys.  But one thing still confuses me about bench
bleeding.  Once the cylinder is bench bled, you still have to install it on
the car.  Won't fluid leak out and air get into the system during
installation?  I know I can put a bolt into the inlet port during the
installation process, but I've still got to remove that bolt in order to hook
up the hydraulic lines.  Or, I am being really stupid and missing something
obvious?

And, for the record, I believe Tim is describing the Alpine problem.  The
bleed screw is on top of the slave and the air bubble collects just above the
screw.  Some have reported success jacking the front of the car up as Tim
describes, although that didn't do it for me the last time I tried.  It is
good to know that Tim has had success with the pressure bleeder.  I made one a
few years ago following the Morgan article, but had trouble with the brake
master cap leaking and never tried it again.  I will try drilling an old
clutch master cap and giving that a try.

And next time, I will bench bleed everything first!

> Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 10:22:38 -0500
> From: Tim.Mullen@ngc.com
> To: shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [Shop-talk] Brake system bleeders
>
> Mark wrote:
> >
> > attach a plastic hose to a NEW oil can filled with brake fluid.  Put
> > the hose on the slave and pump the fluid UP to the master.  Since it
> > fills from the bottom up the air escapes from the master rather than
> > trying to force it out the bottom.
>
> The problem with "back flowing" is that the inlet to the slave is often
> at the bottom, with the bleed at the top.  So, since the air remains at
> the top, you don't completely get the air bubble out of the slave
> cylinder.  If both the bleeder and the inlet line are on the top, it
> might work.
>
> I've had clutches where the car had to be jacked up with one end higher
> to angle the car and get the bleed nipple at the high end of the slave
> so the air would bleed out.
>
> I've also had to make a "tool" to bleed a removed (but connected) slave
> cylinder.  The tool was a strap of metal with three holes.  The outside
> two holes were used to bolt it to the flange of the slave cylinder.  The
> middle one was used to put a bolt in to stick into the piston and keep
> it compressed.  With the "tool" in place and the slave removed from the
> car, I could tilt it such that the bleed nipple was at the high spot,
> and all the air was removed.
>
> But normally, I use my 30+ year old EZ-Bleed pressure bleeder and have
> no problems at all.
>
> Tim Mullen
> _______________________________________________
>
> Shop-talk@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.96
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/shop-talk/jandkstone99@msn.com
>

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390707/direct/01/
_______________________________________________

Shop-talk@autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.96
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums

<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>