If you flush with solvent, be sure that you try to use
DRY air to blow out the lines. Many air compressors
have a drier/water trap, drain it first. The cooling
effect of blowing air/solvent will condense any water.
Alcohol usually contains some water anyway, and will
readily mix with any that condenses. It can puddle in
low spots. Dry nitrogen works very well if you can get
it, instead of air.
Use plugs to seal the open ends of the brake system
(pencils will work in a pinch!), then blow thru from
master cyl end, unsealing only one at a time, starting
from closest to M/C. Keep the system sealed at all
times except when actually working on that piece.
Overkill? Maybe, but Silicone fluid IS expensive, and
you ARE using it to get better brakes.
Details and preparation count.
Carter
--- Tom Shirley <tshirley@vol.com> wrote:
>
> > But if the fluid doesn't
> > absorb water, any water which gets into the brake
> system will just sit in
> the
> > brake pipes not moving, and will cause localised
> rusting of the pipes,
>
> Water isn't going to get into a brake system unless
> you've got some kind of
> problem like a bad m/c cap or you spray water onto
> the cap while cleaning
> the engine. Water is absorbed from the air by non
> DOT5 fluid and will remain
> in the master cylinder. That's where the rust will
> form. There is very
> little if any movement of fluid in a braking system,
> unless you've got a
> circulating system like those built into race cars.
> Therefore, letting the
> car sit doesn't have any effect on how quickly rust
> forms in the system.
>
> Tom Shirley Sale Creek, TN
> 99 Mazda Miata (Bad Dog Racing)
> 78 Triumph Spitfire (for sale)
> http://www.geocities.com/baddogracing/
>
>
>
>
>
>
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