What he said!
Note that lots of sheet metal folk now use Clecos (which are much like
removable and reusable Pop-Rivets.) Definitely understand how to
weld, though, and practice on lots of scrap sheet until you're sure
you've got it. Scrap sheet is cheap! And the material to be joined
has to be clean.
Donald.
> Date: Fri, 01 Sep 2000 14:20:07 -0400
> From: "Nolan Penney" <npenney@mde.state.md.us>
>
>
> Water retention will depend mostly on how you weld, not where the patch is.
> If you set it on top, and weld it from the bottom, you're sealed from rain
>spray,
> but wet carpet would seep water under the seam. Visa-versa if you set the
> repair pan underneath.
>
> I would encourage you set the repair pan in from above. It's quite a bit
>stronger
> to mount it this way (don't discount the strength aspect), and its far easier
>to get
> it aligned correctly as gravity will be working with you instead of against
>you.
>
> At the risk of creating a firestorm, use rivets to set the pan in position.
>This is
> an accepted professional practice of high quality body workers. Though they
> tend to use the far more expensive panel pins. Take the rivets out as you
>weld
> along. The rivets will alo hold the panels close to each other, making for
>better
> welds.
>
> Before you go glopping asphalt or waxoil or other sealants into the gap after
>you
> finish welding, I'd suggest primer and a paint to cover the bare metal.
>
> Lastly, you say this is your first MIG welding job? Have you practiced enough
> to be able to run good beads, and to understand how not to warp the heck
> out of the replacement floorpans and the body tub? If you've got visions of
> just running a bead around the replacement pans, I'd strongly encourage
> you to not do this job yet. Welding body panels on properly so that you don't
> do more damage then you already have is not simple, easy or intuitive.
> Doing a floorpan job is an easy way to pretty well destroy a body tub through
> warping.
>
>
>
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