spitfires
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: Spitfire engine performance upgrade guide...

To: spitfires@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Spitfire engine performance upgrade guide...
From: Michael Hargreave Mawson <OC@46thFoot.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Apr 2001 09:22:59 +0100
In article <3ACFB579.F790305C@rochester.rr.com>, Dale Seeley
<Dseeley1@rochester.rr.com> writes

>On more relevant Spitfire content, the white '78 (#FM0029U) has finally
>made it's way into my garage.  Once I've finally chosen/purchased a new
>top for it (advice welcome!),

Hard top, soft top or tonneau - or all three?

As far as hard-tops are concerned, new factory tops seem to be
unavailable in UK (and I would therefore presume elsewhere as well).
Lenham aftermarket tops can be had from Rimmers at about GBP300.   These
are black vinyl and have no quarterlights, and consequently look very
different from the originals - it is up to you whether you consider this
an advantage or a disadvantage.   I picked up a second-hand factory top
for GBP40, but it needed about GBP150's worth of parts to bring it up to
scratch - headlining, seals, fixings and so on.   Logically, therefore,
a mint-condition second-hand factory hard-top should set you back around
GBP200 if you can find one.   Hard-tops were optional extras, and so it
is likely that fewer were made than were cars.   Assuming that the
survival rates are similar, these ought to be in pretty short supply.

Soft tops are available from the TSSC.   You can choose between Vynide,
Canvas and Mohair, and any of 24 colours (prices range from GBP95 to
"Price on application").   My only experience with these is a recent
purchase of a black vynide hood.   Despite the advertising, there was no
"Free fitting booklet" and the claim "supplied with poppers fitted"
should actually read "supplied only with hood rail strap poppers fitted
- badly".   Once I had managed to fit mine (using the instructions in
the Restoration Guide), I discovered that the damn thing was mis-shapen.
The top seal for the door aperture on the driver's side is over an inch
shorter than it should be, and consequently doesn't even get close to
sealing at the front.   Both "Post B extensions" (i.e. the back seals
for the door windows) are too long, and therefore don't sit flat, and
therefore don't seal.   All this being the case, I wouldn't recommend
that you buy a Club hood.   I am not aware of anyone else doing new
hoods, but I'm sure there must be some.

The TSSC also offers a range of "Renovo" Hood Restoration products - but
if you buy one of each of Pre-Cleaner, Hood Reviver, Window Polish, and
Proofer you will find that you have spent almost as much (GBP75) as if
you had simply bought a brand new hood (GBP95).   Once you figure in
your time, it would appear that it would be cheaper to buy and fit a new
hood than to try to tart up an old one.   However, Halfords sell a
complete Hood Restoration Kit for GBP15.99.

The TSSC also sell black Tonneaux, again in vynide, canvas and mohair
(prices range from GBP80 to GBP170) but I haven't any experience with
these.   The illustration in their sales brochure shows a very imperfect
fit.   I picked up a decent second-hand one (possibly original) for
GBP10 (but it needed a hell of a lot of cleaning...)

Good luck!

ATB
Mike
-- 
Michael Hargreave Mawson, author of "Eyewitness in the Crimea,"
published by Greenhill Books on 28th March, 2001:
http://www.greenhillbooks.com/booksheets/eyewitness_in_the_crimea.html

<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>