Accuracy =dynamically with a quality timing
light. And for the daily driver using unleaded premium, 32-34 degrees total
mechanical advance (vac. advance disconnected if ported to the carb).
Considering today's garbage octanes and
your priority of longevity, I'd suggest no more than 32.
The procedure for "static" setting is given
in the Haynes or whatever manual you are
using (I haven't done it this way in eons. My
mech uses a programmable timing light).
However, should you go this way, simply
double the number shown on your mech.
advance weight within the dizzy, and add
the number of degrees you set the static
timing at BTDC (7 I guess?) and this will
give you your total mechanical advance
in degrees at the crank.
I don't believe in "power timing" (too many
operational/atmospheric "variables") but if
you do set it this way, pick the worst conditions you're likely to run
fairly decent hill in 3rd or 4th, hot engine, hot ambient temp., high
pressure/low humidity day....IOW, the worst of conditions in this respect.
And I'd further suggest using mid-grade to set the timing....than run it on
In any case, I'd check the total mechanical
advance with a timing light, anyway....just
to be sure you're not mechancially overadvanced at "top".