Don,
Let me introduce you to <http://www.powerdog.com/tiresize.cgi>
You enter the tire sizes, and it calculates the revs/mile and the comparisions
to all the ones you list.
In comparing your 205/60-14 to the 185/70-13, I get the following info: Your
sidewall is 4.8 inches, vs 5.1. Your radius is 11.8 inches, vs 11.6. Your
diameter is 23.7 inches, vs 23.2. Your circumference is 74.4 in, vs 72.9. Your
revs/mile are 852 vs 869. Overall the 185/70-13's are -2.31% different in
distance covered per revolution. Pretty close. Of course the rim width (7",
wow) will make differences in diameter, so your measurement may be accurate.
Another way is to count the tire revolutions in 52.8 feet ( or 5, 280 ft if you
like to push a lot, and have a long tape measure).
If you're going to re-build your top-loader, with any gear ratios, Dan Williams
has a "Master Kit" with all the bits and pieces, including bearings, gaskets and
seals. He seems not to include a new layshaft (the piece that the clutster
gear spins on), but I recommend replacing it anyway. Stay away from his "3
piece" input shaft, it may sound high-tech, but it's just a cheap way of getting
around a large forging. Sick with "one piece". After about 1,000 miles I
drained the gear oil and put in synthetic Mobil 1 GEAR oil. It costs about
$10/qt, and you need about 2 1/2 qts. It immediately shifted slicker and ran
quieter. Dan recommends this, and I agree. You'd want to drain the original
oil , in any event, to get rid of the little metal particles from the wear-in,
anyway, aso don't put the expensive stuff in first.
As long as you've got your spreadsheet out, you can calculate and graph your
speed in gears for any combination you can think off.I casn send you an example
template, if you want.
Steve
--
Steve Laifman < One first kiss, >
B9472289 < one first love, and >
< one first win, is all >
< you get in this life. >
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